Tso Moriri: The Jewel of the Changthang Plateau in Ladakh

Nestled in the heart of the Changthang plateau in Ladakh, Tso Moriri is one of the most breathtaking and serene high-altitude lakes in India. Known as the "Mountain Lake," Tso Moriri is a hidden gem that offers a perfect blend of raw natural beauty, solitude, and an unparalleled sense of tranquility. At an altitude of approximately 4,522 meters (14,836 feet), this brackish water lake is the largest high-altitude lake in India that lies entirely within the country’s borders.

Nestled in the heart of the Changthang plateau in Ladakh, Tso Moriri is one of the most breathtaking and serene high-altitude lakes in India. Known as the "Mountain Lake," Tso Moriri is a hidden gem that offers a perfect blend of raw natural beauty, solitude, and an unparalleled sense of tranquility. At an altitude of approximately 4,522 meters (14,836 feet), this brackish water lake is the largest high-altitude lake in India that lies entirely within the country’s borders.

For those seeking an off-the-beaten-path adventure, Tso Moriri presents an opportunity to experience Ladakh in its most untouched and pristine form.

For those seeking an off-the-beaten-path adventure, Tso Moriri presents an opportunity to experience Ladakh in its most untouched and pristine form.

The Journey to Tso Moriri: A Scenic Adventure  The journey to Tso Moriri is as captivating as the destination itself. The lake is located about 240 kilometers southeast of Leh, the capital of Ladakh. The route takes you through some of the most spectacular and remote landscapes, offering a true taste of Ladakh’s rugged beauty.

The Journey to Tso Moriri: A Scenic Adventure

The journey to Tso Moriri is as captivating as the destination itself. The lake is located about 240 kilometers southeast of Leh, the capital of Ladakh. The route takes you through some of the most spectacular and remote landscapes, offering a true taste of Ladakh’s rugged beauty.


1. Leh to Upshi

The drive begins from Leh, heading southeast along the Indus River towards the village of Upshi. The road here is well-maintained, and the views of the river and the surrounding mountains are simply stunning. Upshi marks the beginning of your journey into the more remote parts of Ladakh.


2. Upshi to Chumathang

From Upshi, the road continues along the Indus River towards Chumathang, a small village known for its hot springs. The landscape here begins to change, becoming more rugged and barren as you ascend into the high-altitude desert. The road is relatively easy to drive on, with occasional stretches of rough patches.


3. Chumathang to Mahe Bridge

After Chumathang, the route takes you to Mahe Bridge, where you cross the Indus River and head towards the Changthang plateau. The road here becomes narrower and more challenging, but the views of the stark, desolate landscape are mesmerizing. This is also the region where you start to feel the remoteness and isolation of the Changthang plateau.


4. Mahe Bridge to Tso Moriri via Sumdo

From Mahe Bridge, the road to Tso Moriri takes you through Sumdo village, and the final stretch of the journey involves driving through some rough, unpaved tracks. The landscape is a vast, empty expanse, with only the occasional sight of a nomadic camp or grazing yaks. As you approach Tso Moriri, the road ascends slightly, offering your first glimpse of the lake—a shimmering blue jewel set against a backdrop of snow-capped peaks.

The Beauty of Tso Moriri: A Symphony of Colors and Silence  Tso Moriri is a sight to behold. The lake stretches approximately 28 kilometers in length and 5 to 8 kilometers in width, surrounded by the barren, snow-covered mountains of the Ladakh and Zanskar ranges. The water of the lake is a deep blue, reflecting the ever-changing hues of the sky, from bright turquoise under the midday sun to a dark, almost navy blue as evening sets in.

The Beauty of Tso Moriri: A Symphony of Colors and Silence

Tso Moriri is a sight to behold. The lake stretches approximately 28 kilometers in length and 5 to 8 kilometers in width, surrounded by the barren, snow-covered mountains of the Ladakh and Zanskar ranges. The water of the lake is a deep blue, reflecting the ever-changing hues of the sky, from bright turquoise under the midday sun to a dark, almost navy blue as evening sets in.

The area around Tso Moriri is part of the Tso Moriri Wetland Conservation Reserve, a protected area that is home to a variety of wildlife, including the rare and endangered black-necked crane, bar-headed geese, Himalayan marmots, and Tibetan wolves. The lake and its surroundings are also a vital habitat for migratory birds, making it a paradise for birdwatchers.

The area around Tso Moriri is part of the Tso Moriri Wetland Conservation Reserve, a protected area that is home to a variety of wildlife, including the rare and endangered black-necked crane, bar-headed geese, Himalayan marmots, and Tibetan wolves. The lake and its surroundings are also a vital habitat for migratory birds, making it a paradise for birdwatchers.

The Village of Korzok: A Slice of Ladakhi Culture

The small village of Korzok lies on the northwestern shore of Tso Moriri. This remote village is one of the highest permanently inhabited villages in the world, sitting at an altitude of about 4,595 meters (15,075 feet). Korzok is home to the Korzok Monastery, a 300-year-old gompa that offers a glimpse into the spiritual life of the Changpa nomads who inhabit this region.


The monastery is a modest structure, but its location, overlooking the vast expanse of Tso Moriri, gives it a serene and majestic aura. The village of Korzok itself is a simple settlement, with stone houses and yak wool tents, where the nomadic people live a traditional lifestyle, herding yaks and goats. The village is a fascinating place to visit, offering a unique insight into the life of the Changpa people and their deep connection with the land.

Soon we were in Karzok, the only village on the bank of Tso Moriri. We had a quick lunch at one of the local restaurants and then started searching for a place to stay. We found out that the rooms in even the most average of the homestays too were very expensive. We managed to find a cottage on the banks of the little stream that flows through the village for a more reasonable price and checked in.

Exploring Tso Moriri: Activities and Experiences

While Tso Moriri is primarily a place to relax and soak in the natural beauty, there are several activities that visitors can enjoy.


1. Trekking

The region around Tso Moriri offers some excellent trekking opportunities. The Korzok to Kibber trek is a popular route that takes you through some of the most remote and pristine landscapes in Ladakh. The trek is challenging, requiring good physical fitness and acclimatization to the high altitude, but the rewards are immense—stunning views, encounters with wildlife, and a deep sense of solitude.


2. Birdwatching

As a designated wetland reserve, Tso Moriri is a haven for birdwatchers. The best time to spot migratory birds is during the summer months when species such as the black-necked crane, brahminy ducks, and bar-headed geese can be seen around the lake. Early mornings and late afternoons are the best times for birdwatching, as the birds are most active during these hours.


3. Photography

Tso Moriri is a photographer’s dream. The changing colors of the lake, the play of light and shadow on the mountains, and the stark beauty of the landscape offer endless opportunities for stunning photographs. Whether you’re an amateur or a professional, you’ll find plenty of inspiration at Tso Moriri.


4. Stargazing

The remote location of Tso Moriri, far from any light pollution, makes it an excellent spot for stargazing. On a clear night, the sky comes alive with a dazzling display of stars, and you can even see the Milky Way stretching across the horizon. For astronomy enthusiasts, Tso Moriri offers one of the best stargazing experiences in Ladakh.

After a couple of minutes, we went our own way. However, I was nervous all through and kept silently praying that the dogs wouldn't realize that we had pulled a trick on them. We only breathed a sigh of relief when we entered the cattle enclosures. The calves were now being led back to the warmth of their sheds, and the villagers were now turning in for the day.

Practical Tips for Visiting Tso Moriri

Acclimatization: Given the high altitude of Tso Moriri, it’s essential to acclimatize properly before visiting. Spend a few days in Leh or other lower-altitude areas to avoid altitude sickness.

Permits: An Inner Line Permit (ILP) is required to visit Tso Moriri, as it is located in a restricted area near the India-China border. These permits can be obtained in Leh.

Best Time to Visit: The best time to visit Tso Moriri is between May and September when the weather is relatively mild, and the roads are accessible. The winter months bring heavy snowfall, making the area inaccessible.

Accommodation: There are limited accommodation options around Tso Moriri. The most common choices are basic guesthouses or homestays in Korzok village. For a more authentic experience, consider staying in a nomadic tent with the Changpa people.

Travel Essentials: Since the area is remote and lacks tourist infrastructure, it’s important to carry all necessary supplies, including food, water, and warm clothing. A sturdy vehicle is essential for the rough roads, and it’s advisable to carry extra fuel and a spare tire.

By the time we started back home, Village dogs had become active and were barking at a distance. After walking for a bit, we realized that they were right in our way. A lone, brave soul was walking through them toward us, carrying a camping kit. As we inched closer, we realized that he too was afraid, and was turning back and looking at the dogs again and again. There were four dogs in total and there were the three of us, including the stranger. I thought standing close together for some time and acting nonchalant would make the dogs lose interest. So I casually asked the stranger if he was afraid of the dogs. The gentleman seemed to be from Israel, and was apparently planning to spend the night close to the lake. He answered that he wasn't afraid, but kept looking at the dogs. After seeing the three of us standing together and talking casually, the dogs actually lost interest in us.

Tso Moriri is more than just a lake; it’s an experience of Ladakh’s raw and unfiltered beauty. The journey to this remote lake is an adventure in itself, taking you through some of the most isolated and stunning landscapes in the region. Once there, the tranquil waters of the lake, the surrounding mountains, and the deep silence of the wilderness create a sense of peace and serenity that is hard to find anywhere else.

After visiting the Tso Moriri Viewpoint, where sand keeps flying about, we asked around about places to see. It turned out there wasn't much to do. From this property, even though the Tso was visible, it was at a distance. We would need to walk through cattle enclosures where some very cute calves were tied up, and meadows to reach it. It seemed like a pleasant enough walk. So we went for it. It took us about half-an-hour to reach the shore. On the way, we sat for a bit on the lush grass in the meadow, and then finally upon reaching the shore, we sat on the sand for some time, waiting for sunset. This was a mistake, because it was steadily growing colder.

For those looking to explore the lesser-known parts of Ladakh, Tso Moriri offers a perfect escape. Whether you’re drawn by the promise of solitude, the thrill of adventure, or the sheer beauty of the landscape, Tso Moriri is a destination that will leave a lasting impression on your soul. In the midst of the vast, barren wilderness of Ladakh, Tso Moriri stands as a testament to the untouched beauty of nature, waiting to be discovered by those who seek it.

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