Road Trip from Delhi to Kashmir Valley through stunning & lush green Old Mughal Road - Srinagar, Sinthan Pass, Kishtwar, Daksum, Anantnag, Buffliaz, Behramgalla, Chandimarh, Poshana, Chattapani, Peer Ki Gali, Aliabad, Zaznar, Dubjan, Heerpora and Shopian

Sprawling green meadows, dotted with virgin snow and glaciers that give birth to several milky streams meandering through the grasslands – the name “Peer ki Gali” can never prepare you for this ethereal sight. And there are so many wonderful places like that on Old Mughal Road. Secluded and isolated, Peer ki Gali lies at the highest point of the Old Mughal Road at approximately 11,500 ft, connecting the Kashmir Valley with the Poonch and Rajouri Districts. Cutting through the majestic mountains and the Hirpora Wildlife Sanctuary, this is perhaps one of the most rewarding routes in terms of the pristine scenic beauty. During our road trip, this was the place which made us change our plans of the trip. So let's start with knowing more about Peer ki Gali and then move along the Old Mughal road and other awesome places of Kashmir valley in India.

Peer ki Gali on Old Mughal Road :  

Several magnificent horses graze lazily on the velvety grass and the sheep as well do not seem to be in a hurry to get anywhere. The cool air gently brushes past as contemplative shepherds observe you with a silent, interested gaze. You don’t feel offended and return their gracious smiles without any second thoughts. This is a world without malice. So when you come across the Shrine of Hazrat Ahmad Karim Sahib, you instinctively know that this is the most appropriate site for the Ziarat.

Time seems to stand still even as the gentle gurgling of the stream nearby reminds you of your journey that needs to be resumed soon. Sudden rains bring an abrupt end to your procrastination, and breathing in the fresh, fragrant air for the last few times, you reluctantly get up and get going. But this is not where it ends. Once you have been to Peer ki Gali, you can never leave it behind. Its enchanting sights and charm stay with you forever in your memories, often calling out to you when you close your eyes.   

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Peer Ki Gali is an amazing place on old Mughal road in Jammu & Kashmir State of India. This place is the highest passes on Srinagar Rajouri historic Mughal Road at 11300 Feets.

Various water streams can seen flowing through snow covered peaks of Peer-Ki-Gali hills. Cool freeze, freshening environment and roaming clouds all over makes this place wonderful. After talking to various folks at Peer ki Gali, we got to know that almost every day it rains on these hills. We spent two days around it and we also experienced rain showers both the days...

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Here is a photograph of a shopkeeper inside his small shop made up of stones. He had almost everything that is usually required for routine life in hills. These families come to these high hills with their cattle, as this place has got more than enough grazing land which becomes a problem during a particular time of the year.

 Ziarat of Peer Baba on hill top has gained its popularity. Almost every vehicle passing by Peer-ki-Gali stops here to enjoy the panaromic view as well as to take blessings of Peer Baba. 

Green layer on Peer-Ki-Gali hills looks amazing and it's a huge range of hills with green meadows...

Shepherd sitting in these green hills around Peer ki Gali... Almost every alternate hill was full of sheeps and horses... This trend was only noticed around Peer-Ki-Gali on Mughal Road...

In past this place have been of great interest for trekkers and now easily accessible for others as well. Tourism is picking up in this region of Jammu and Kashmir now. This will not only boost the economy of the state but also open new aspects to the residents.

CRPF folks can seen here and there around these hills to make every person safe on these hills around Peer ki Gali. Really these folks are working really well to give confidence to common people to enjoy the beauty around Mughal Road.

Sheeps all around in green hills of Peer Ki Gali, Kashmir, India.

All these water streams make the whole environment more beautiful. All these streams have chilling water of melted snow of hill-tops. Dark clouds covering blue sky with lush green hills having multiple white-water streams - this whole combination makes Peer-Ki-Gali a unique place.

Local folks on this stretch can organize various trekking trips with all arrangements for lodging in tents or some othe wooden houses, which can good source of income going forward.

Jammu and Kashmir state of India is known as heaven on earth. In the seventeenth century the Mughal emperor Jahangir set his eyes on the valley of Kashmir and Peer-Ki-Gali is one of the place they used to stay. There is an old Mughal Residence in deep valley. Mughals said that if paradise is anywhere on the earth, it is here, while living in a houseboat on the mesmerizing Dal Lake.  In Jammu and Kashmir the most important tourist places are Kashmir, Srinagar, the Mughal Gardens, Gulmarg, Pahalgam, Jammu, and Ladakh...

It will take a long more time to further develop the area but nobody can deny that it's magical. This whole stretch is magnetic. It draws you closer and closer. As we packed up, the beauty of the place wanted me to linger more. But I returned home with some amazing memories to cherish forever; vivid pics in the heart and mind that won't fade or get lost ever. It is a place that can't be expressed in words and that can't be explained in pics; just plan a trip and experience it all yourself.

Before militancy intensified in 1989, tourism formed an important part of the Kashmiri economy. The tourism economy in the Kashmir valley was worst hit. Many five stars in Srinagar can be seen which are not well maintained now and owners can't afford to spend more on those properties. However, the holy shrines of Jammu and the Buddhist monasteries of Ladakh continue to remain popular pilgrimage and tourism destinations. Every year, thousands of Hindu pilgrims visit holy shrines of Vaishno Devi and Amarnath which has had significant impact on the state's economy.The Vaishno Devi yatra alone contributes Rs. 450+ crores to the local economy annually.

Tourism in the Kashmir valley has rebounded in recent years and in 2009, the state became one of the top tourist destinations of India. Gulmarg, one of the most popular ski resort destinations in India, is also home to the world's highest green golf course. However with the decrease in violence in the state has boosted the states economy specifically tourism.

Related Blogpost - The beautiful Mughal Road through Buffliaz, Behramgalla, Chandimarh,Poshana, Chattapani, Peer Ki Gali, Aliabad, Zaznar, Dubjan, Heerpora and Shopian

Peer ki gali has religious importance as well. Most of the folks crossing through this place, stop by and spend some time around the mazar of Peer baba. This is of the holy places for Muslim saints. Here people from almost all the religions comes in large number to pray, on Thursday.

There are some beautiful waterfalls around Peer Ki Gali and number/flow depends upon the time of the year & amount the snow these hills have got. Some of them are seasonal and many of them can be seen during most of the year.

Kashmir's official language is Urdu. However the main languages spoken are Kashmiri in the Kashmir Valley, Ladakhi in Ladakh and Dogri in Jammu. Most people can speak Hindi as a second language. As elsewhere in India, English is fairly widely spoken among the educated classes and those involved in the tourist industry.

Here this photograph showing typical style of houses in Peer-Ki-Gali on Mughal Road in Jammu & Kashmir state of India. Mainly made up of rock-stones and flat roof made up of wood & mud. They are quite spacious and are seasonal. People go down to their main towns during snowfall in this region.

A view of deep valley with curved roads from Peer-Ki-Gali, Jammu & Kashmir, India.

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SINTHAN PASS :

When in Kashmir, we drove to Daksum, Anantnag, Sinthan Top and Kishtwar from Srinagar. This road also connects Srinagar with Jammu, but we had taken Mughal road to hit Kashmir Valley when drove from Delhi. These is one of the most beautiful terrains of Kashmir Valley. In fact, it would be unfair to compare various terrains in Kashmir Valley, because all of these have unique character and equally beautiful.

Daksum is surrounded by dense forests with Bringhi River flowing right through its center. Daksum has been a popular destination for explorers and adventure lovers. Green meadows around Daksum look amazing and if you are lucky, you can find few shepherds singing some local songs. We met a gentleman, who loves playing flute. Unfortunately he didn't want to get clicked, so I don't have his photograph. All this may sound filmy but that's what you experience in Kashmir Valley.

Clouds of Kashmir Valley are very interesting and naughty. They keep playing games with you, especially hide-n-seek.

I clicked hundreds of cloud photographs in Kashmir. If you are lucky, these clouds also try to surround you from closer distance. Especially in early morning and late evening. Most of the times, these hills get drizzle.   

On these terrains around Sinthan Top, you feel like stopping your car and sit around the edge to experience the cool breeze blowing through the valley and green landscapes all around. It's a must do experience at a place where you find peace around these hills. 

Road connecting Srinagar with Sinthan Pass goes through beautiful landscapes full of green meadows, dense forests, cities, some beautiful mosques and paddy fields. 

Above photographs is clicked during Mughal Rally (A motorsport event organised by Himalayan Motorsports). The Sinthan pass connects Kashmir valley with Jammu Province through Kistwar. Pass is approximately 12500 feet above sea level and is covered with snow for most of the year. It is located at the Anantnag-Kokernag-Kishtwar NH1B Highway and is 130 km south of Srinagar and 72 kilometers from Anantnag and approximately 50 kilometers from Kokernag. 

These curvy hills offer you unmatchable views of snow capped hills shimmering with sunlight and intense shadows of clouds. Flora and fauna of Kashmir valley welcomes you with open arms on the way to Sinthan top. There are very few tourists come to this part of Kashmir valley. Some of the most popular destinations in Kashmir are Srinagar, Pehalgaon, Gulmarg, Sonmarg and Leh. 

Sinthan Top has no local population. Shepherds from adjoining places like Kokernag, Duksum, and tourists and those working in the tourism industry may stay overnight in tents. There is a small tea shop at top, which serves tea and basic snacks to tourists and army folks roaming around. 

The drive from Srinagar to Sinthan Pass offers you lot more than that. Foothills of Sinthan Pass on both sides have very beautiful villages full of wooden houses, which are usually seen in movies. All of those seemed old and most of the newer houses near road were all modern with concrete construction.  

From Sinthan pass, there is an uphill trek to Sinthan top. The uphill climb to Sinthan top is a difficult and steep. Initially we hesitated to take this challenge but when did it, we found it worth. That was one of the best moments from our kashmir valley. 

How to reach this part of Kashmir Valley -

Srinagar has nearest airport.  Anantnag railway station is also connected with Kashmir Railway that runs from Baramulla to Qazigund. If you are in Jammu or Srinagar, you can hire a taxi or take bus for this part of Kashmir Valley. 

Lodging around Sinthan Pass, Anantnag -

There are not many places to stay in Daksum. A few decent options can be found in Anantnag or Kokernag. Now some of the NGOs are actively running homestays in this part of Kashmir. One can find some goods option to stay in Anantnag. There are enough dhabas and restaurants serving local and Indian cuisine. It's recommended to do more research about the place and do advance booking. Also keep a track of local news, before you head there. 

This part of Kashmir and Peer Panjal mountain ranges are like heaven on earth. These grand views hypnotise all travellers and tourists crossing through Sinthan Pass. Every turn offers you new surprise and journey remains interesting. 

You can find lot of snow around Sinthan Pass, but remains of snow can be seen at distant places as well. Above photograph share true colors and mood of Kashmir - the bright blue sky, pure white clouds and snow covered green meadows. 

 Hari Niwas Palace in Jammu :

Hari Niwas Palace or 'Amar Mahal' is located at same place and a beautiful piece of Architecture. The Amar Mahal Palace is a beautiful palace located on the bank of river in Jammu town. Now it has been converted into a Museum and one of the popular places in the town. Amar Mahal was built for Raja Amar Singh, who is a Dogra king. This palace was donated to the Hari-Tara charitable trust by Dr. Karan Singh  for use as a museum. This beautiful building has some of the most beautiful golden throne weighing 120 kg, Pahari miniature and Kangra miniature paintings , a library of more than 24 thousand books and rare art collections.

The palace was the last official residence of the Dogra dynasty , and a large collection of portraits of the royal family are also on display in the Museum. Usually there is good security around this place and very well maintained space around it. This place is very close to Raj Bhavan in the city and has quite peaceful surroundings. 

Dal Lake in Srinagar :

Teeming with the activities that typically constitute the day-to-day activities of an average human being, Dal Lake is almost an entire city on the water, complete with accommodation, transport, gardens, shops, and even full-fledged markets. And there is no dearth of activities to do in and about the huge lake that sprawls across a vast area of about 18 square kilometres.

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A shikara meandering through the lake to the tunes of the rhythmic rowing by the expert, phiron-clad boatmen is an image that has been etched into our minds by the blue-eyed Shammi Kapoor romancing and the pretty, petite Sharmila

Tagore. But beyond the romance, the shikaras are the best mode of transport to reach the Mughal gardens, to explore the floating markets and vegetable gardens, or to simply experience the unparalleled splendour of the lake.

 

Each lavish, British-style houseboat moored on the side of the lake or near the tiny Islands is a time capsule to the colonial times. Some of these houseboats are almost a century old and are still being rented out today. The houseboats are complete with well-furnished rooms, terraces, and verandas. Each houseboat has a dedicated kitchen, mostly on a separate, smaller boat.

 

Floating shops and markets bring the legendary Kashmiri Pashminas, and artefacts and even fruits, vegetables, and flowers to you as you lay back in your shikaras and enjoy the comforting sound of the water lapping the sides of the

boat. This unusual market becomes even more unusual once you realize that several of the vegetables being sold out of these shikaras have been grown in the gardens that float on the Dal Lake.

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Reflections of the majestic mountains, often shaken by the ripples from the oars of the shikaras, and the impeccably manicured Mughal gardens that surround the lake take one back to the medieval times when Dal Lake used to serve as the summer resort for the Mughal Rulers.

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The grandiose appeal, the surreal beauty of this 'paradise' is incomparable even today when pollution, crowding, and eutrophication are increasingly becoming a challenge. Several initiatives are currently in place to revive the fading lustre of this shining 'Jewel in the crown of Kashmir'. While the corrective actions are a must and need to be carried out, a lot of thought also needs to be given to the preventive actions that can help sustain the magnificence of the lake for the future.

Nigeen Lake in Srinagar -

All of us have heard of Dal Lake in Srinagar, but I was not aware of Nigeen Lake before I visited Kashmir Valley. I stayed at Centaur Hotel which is close to Nigeen lake and that's how I got a chance to explore this lake well in Srinagar.  During my 3 days stay at Srinagar, I had various Shikara rides in Nigeen lake and explored different parts of the lake. This PHOTO JOURNEY shares some of the photographs clicked around Nigeen Lake and information about houseboats, markets, vegetation, Shikara rides, shopping and lot more. In fact, I found Nigeen lake better than Dal lake. Less crowded, better maintained, cleaner and peaceful. The lake looks awesome during sunset time whenever most of the Shikaras move towards the shoreline and lake market closes down by handing over all the tourists & travellers to houseboats. Glittering lights of houseboats and their reflections in Nigeen lake look amazing.

Evening is best time for Shikara ride in Nigeen lake. There are multiple reasons for that. I prefer Nigeen lake over Dal lake because of less commercialisation and hence peace :). Look at these stunning colors of sunset reflecting on lak surface. Every evening, we used to wait for sunset and walk around this beautiful lake in Srinagar.

The nigeen lake has a very serene and fully equipped nigeen club which has restaurant fitness centre and private yachts. The place is surrounded by many top restaurants like chickblast, othersidecafe, snooker cafe, and a beautiful park.

Lot of families can be seen sitting around the lake during evening time. Some of them also enjoy fishing, although not sure if that's legal or not. Above photograph shows a man indulged in fishing around Nigeen Lake, along with his son. A few minutes ago, they had a good catch and we saw them putting the fish in a bag. 

Nigeen Lake is also connected to the Khushal Sar and Gil Sar lakes via a channel known as Nallah Amir Khan.

While we are talking about fishing around Nigeen lake, you can see good number of Kingfisher birds sitting around and catching fish form the lake. Above photograph shows silhouette of kingfisher sitting on a rod inside the lake and keeping a watch on bunch of fish. 

Shikaras can be seen at various places around the shoreline. After every 300 meters you can find Shikaras waiting for tourists. There are different kinds of Shikaras and tariff varies accordingly. One thing I love the most about these shikaras is colours used to decorate them. Red is very prominent colours in most of the shikaras around Nigeen lake or Dal lake. Most of the shikara owners chose red roof of the shikara along with matching seating & carpets etc. 

Another photograph of a man fishing around Nigeen lake in Srinagar. 

The Shikara ride is usually 45 mins to 1 hr 15 mins. These Shikaras take you to lake market, which is in the middle of lake. All the shops are floating over the lake. On your way, you see some of the brilliant and popular houseboats in Srinagar. 

If not staying in these houseboats, you can plan to have lunch at one of those. Only few of them have restaurants. It can be a great experience to enjoy lunch on the lake, while listening to local folk songs.  

We were fortunate to board the Shikara, who's owner was a singer. He sang few Kashmiri songs for us. Unfortunately we forgot to make videos, otherwise that could have been a great addition to this blog-post. 

After visiting lake market in the middle of Nigeen lake of Srinagar, the Shikara takes you little further and exposes you to clusters of houses in the lake. Like we own cars to commute in cities, these folks own a boat to go to other side of the lake. In above photograph you see a boat, which is being used by a local to go back home after day job. 

Some of my friends had told that Nigeen lake is little dirty, but when we were there it was much cleaner and cleaning project was under progress. The colourful lotuses were looking brilliant with millions of lotus-leaves all around. We also saw white lotuses in Nigeen lake of Srinagar. 

The Nigeen lake is surrounded by a large number of willow and poplar trees. Hence, it has come to be referred as a nageena, which means 'the jewel in the ring'. The word 'nigeen' is a local variant of the same word and you appreciate it more when you understand why it's called Nigeen lake.

If you are having a Shikara ride during day, you can relax and have a nap :) and we did that when coming back from Lake market. 

There are lot of Shikaras in Nigeen lake, which would come to you and sell snacks, bhutta & handicraft. You can enjoy fruit chats, bhutta, tea, local snacks when enjoying shikara ride. At the same time, if you don't have much time, you can do little shopping in lake only. One of my friends bought Kashmiri Jewelry for his friends & family.  

I would rate Nigeen lake experience much better in Srinagar and in my next trip, I intend to stay in one of the Houseboats in Nigeen Lake. 

There are some houses around the lake and hence you can see lot of local folks riding their boats to commute to other side of the lake. In morning, mothers can be seen riding their boats to drop kids on other side for joining school. 

Nigeen Lake is a mildly eutrophic lake which is sometimes considered a part of the Dal lake and is connected to it via a narrow strait.

The Nigeen lake is a major tourist attraction in Srinagar, known for its relatively pristine waters as compared to the Dal lake. Houseboats and shikaras are a usual sight around the lake. Nigeen lake is also ideal for swimming, being deeper and less crowded than the Dal lake, although I didn't see anyone swimming around the main part of the lake. 

If you liked this post and found it helpful, I would request you to follow these things when traveling -

- Manage your waste well and don’t litter.

- Use dustbins. Tell us if you went to a place and found it hard to locate a dustbin.

- Avoid bottle waters in hills. Usually you get clean water in hills and water bottles create lot of mess in our ecosystem.

- Say big no to plastic and avoid those unhealthy snacks packed in plastic bags. Rather buy fruits.

- Don't play loud blaring music in forests of jungle camps. You are a guest in that ecosystem and disturbing the locals (humans and animals) is not polite.