Timeworn Ramnagar Fort in Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh || A once-beautiful fort that is now showing signs of neglect
When Kashi Naresh Maharaja Balwant Singh built the Ramnagar Fort on the Bank of the Holy River Ganga in 1750, world was a very different place. For one, the words "Naresh" and "Maharaja" actually meant something beyond just titles. You were responsible and accountable for the safety and prosperity of your people.
Having a strong and imposing fort to symbolize the financial and military strength of your kingdom was usually what most of the visionary Kings resorted to. So you see some really magnificent and overwhelming forts scattered all over the world, mostly from the middle ages.
Ramnagar Fort is one such fort. Built on the eastern right ghat of the River Ganga, the fort still looks quite imposing from opposite banks. So after our visit to Sarnath, we decided to head to the fort to complete our tour of the Banaras city in Uttar Pradesh.
The fort is made of pale yellow chunar sandstone, at most places. And while walking among the walls, one can completely imagine the splendor of the time when Varanasi was a thriving kingdom. The ornate carvings and the splendid lawns do tell you that the Maharaja had great taste.
The fort was largely built in Mughal style of architecture, so you find large bulbous domes and minarets. There are intricately carved pillars and buttresses and also jalis or latticed boundaries on the several balconies.
While most of the fort can be explored without paying any entry charges, in order to view the museum, you need to purchase a ticket worth Rs 50 per person. The museum has a very quirky collection of vintage imported cars, some guns and other weapons, sliver plated elephant saddles, intricately embroidered costumes made of kimkhwa silk, etc. One can really see how different life would have been at one time.
The museum though isn't too well maintained. The cars are dirty and not nice to look at. One can see signs of wear and tear on clothes and other fineries as well. After paying for the ticket, it doesn't seem fair that the museum isn't that well maintained.
The fort too looks to be in the need of repair at various places. The walls could do with some repainting. You might ask why would one go into an old fort expecting the plaster to be all perfect. However, I say this because, while a section of the fort is open for public viewing, the rest of it is still the living quarters of the current heir of the erstwhile royal family, Anant Narayan Singh.
Also displayed in the museum is a rare astronomical clock, which not only tells the current time, it also tells the current year, month, week, and day. It also tells the astronomical details about the Sun, Moon and the planets. This clock was made in 1852 by the Astronomer at the Court of the Varanasi Palace.
Though Royalty doesn't mean much in modern India, the current Maharaja still maintains some rituals that have been passed down the generations of family. For example, currently, when the Maharaja is in residence at the Fort, the flag is raised.
There is also a month-long Ramayana festival that happens around Dussehra, Various scenes from the Ramayana are enacted during this time and the streets and palace are decorated. The Maharaja still continues his family tradition of attending the Ramayana festival while riding a well-dressed elephant.
Apart from the museum, there are several other interesting places to explore within the fort. There is a terrace overlooking the gorgeous Ganga River, where you will almost always find a pleasant cool breeze blowing.
Also present within the premises of the fort is the Vyaas Kasi Temple. Legend has it that Lord Shiva had once banished Ved Vyaas from Varanasi because of his bad temple. Then Vyaas started living on the eastern ghat of Ganga, which was Ramnagar. Hence this temple dedicated to the Great Guru was built here in Varanasi.
Another temple within the premises of the Ramnagar Fort is the Dakshin Mukhi temple of Hanuman. Both these temples, though not too big, are excellent examples of traditional Hindu temple architecture.
Ramnagar Fort in Varanasi is situated on the eastern bank of the Ganges river. The distance between the fort and the riverbank may vary depending on the exact location of the fort within the town of Ramnagar, but it is generally only a few hundred meters away from the riverbank. Visitors can easily walk from the fort to the riverbank to take a boat ride or witness the evening Ganga Aarti ceremony, which takes place at several ghats along the river in Varanasi.
Ramnagar Fort in Varanasi is managed by the Kashi Naresh (the hereditary ruler of Kashi or Varanasi), who is currently Anant Narayan Singh. The fort is a private property of the Kashi Naresh and is not under the control of the Archaeological Survey of India or any other government agency. The management of the fort is primarily the responsibility of the Kashi Naresh and his family, with the help of a few caretakers and staff members. However, the Uttar Pradesh State Tourism Department also plays a role in promoting the fort as a tourist destination and providing basic facilities for visitors.
Overall the Ramnagar Fort is a good place to visit if you happen to be in Banaras. You can still see glimpses of the past luxury and prosperity of this royal kingdom. You can imagine how beautiful the fort must have been in its days of glory. Hopefully the current Maharaja will also be able to carry out some maintenance and ensure that the fort gets the attention that it deserves.
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