Ladakh Adventure: 10 Days of Thrilling Escapades in the Himalayas

Ladakh had been on our minds for several years by the time we got down to seriously planning for a trip there. Initially, we had booked tickets for June 2024, but had to move it to July instead because of several factors. In June, we had planned for 6 days, but when we rescheduled to July, we added a few days, making it a 10-day trip, so that we could cover more ground. We did manage to visit most places in one trip, though this still felt more of an overview. We will need to visit again to really soak it in.

Ladakh had been on our minds for several years by the time we got down to seriously planning for a trip  there. Initially, we had booked tickets for June 2024, but had to move it to July instead because of several factors. In June, we had planned for 6 days, but when we rescheduled to July, we added a few days, making it a 10-day trip, so that we could cover more ground. We did manage to visit most places in one trip, though this still felt more of an overview. We will need to visit again to really soak it in. 

Here are the regions we were able to visit: 


We were not able to cover the following regions this time, but hope to do this sometime in the future:
1. Hanle and Umlingla
2. Zanskar Valley
3. Dha Hanu Valley
4. Siachen Basecamp
5. Kargil District

And this time, we flew to Leh and then hired a taxi for most of our explorations. Next time, we would like to drive there. 

Anyway, till then, here is what we accomplished in 10 days:

Day 1: Landing in Leh and Luggage Trouble We boarded an early morning Air India flight from New Delhi to Leh on 1st July 2024. After flying above spectacular snow-covered mountains beside the majestic Karakoram range, the flight landed in Leh at around 8am.

Day 1: Landing in Leh and Luggage Trouble

We boarded an early morning Air India flight from New Delhi to Leh on 1st July 2024. After flying above spectacular snow-covered mountains beside the majestic Karakoram range, the flight landed in Leh at around 8am. 

When we were waiting for our luggage to arrive, we learnt that our bag had been offloaded in Delhi. And not only our bag, a total of 150 bags had been offloaded and would arrive the next day. There was absolute mayhem, mostly because this news spread through Chinese whispers and there was no proactive communication from the authorities. Anyway, we slowly came to terms with this, left our details with the authorities, took their phone number and email ID, and left the airport for the hotel. 

We booked a taxi from the stand and were informed that the rates were standard - Rs. 550. However, after the ride we realized that our hotel was just 4-5 kms from the the airport and the fare did not appear justified. The other option would have been a city bus, but upon looking back we accepted that at that time we were in no state to wait for a bus and then walk all the way to the hotel.

We booked a taxi from the stand and were informed that the rates were standard - Rs. 550. However, after the ride we realized that our hotel was just 4-5 kms from the the airport and the fare did not appear justified. The other option would have been a city bus, but upon looking back we accepted that at that time we were in no state to wait for a bus and then walk all the way to the hotel. 

The good thing about Lingzi hotel is that it is situated right in front of the Main Bazaar. So we just had to cross a road to reach it. We roamed around the street for a bit. It is a marvellous place to observe tourists, local Buddhist and Muslim traditions, and traditional architecture. We also had lunch here at Chef's Kitchen, a restaurant with terrace that offered amazing views of the Tsemo Palace. We had Tingmo with Chicken.

We checked into the Lingzi Hotel, where we were advised by the manager to take complete rest for the day in order to get acclimatised properly. The dilemma was that we hadn't slept well at night and were worried that if we kept lying down, we would fall asleep. Whereas, a Government website mentioned that one should not sleep too much during the day while acclimatizing. So we lied down for a few hours and then ventured out. 

The good thing about Lingzi hotel is that it is situated right in front of the Main Bazaar. So we just had to cross a road to reach it. We roamed around the street for a bit. It is a marvellous place to observe tourists, local Buddhist and Muslim traditions, and traditional architecture. We also had lunch here at Chef's Kitchen, a restaurant with terrace that offered amazing views of the Tsemo Palace. We had Tingmo with Chicken. 

After that we hired a taxi for sight seeing. We explored Tsemo Palace and Monastery, Leh Palace, and Shanti Stupa. All this while, at the back of minds, the worry that our luggage had not been delivered was constantly naggng. However, I think we managed to stay calm, while escalating the matter through various means, including email and X. The phone number that the airport authorities had provided us was switched off throughout and we did not receive any response from the email that we had been provided.

After that we hired a taxi for sight seeing. We explored Tsemo Palace and Monastery, Leh Palace, and Shanti Stupa. All this while, at the back of minds, the worry that our luggage had not been delivered was constantly naggng. However, I think we managed to stay calm, while escalating the matter through various means, including email and X. The phone number that the airport authorities had provided us was switched off throughout and we did not receive any response from the email that we had been provided. 

We then made arrangements for the next day's planned outing to Likir and Alchi. We would be sharing a taxi with two other people and would be starting the ride at 8AM. We retired to our room, full of anticipation for the excursion on the next day and also a little anxiety about our bag. And we also applied for our permits for Alchi side. Day 2: Shared Ride from Leh to Alchi and Back, sprinkled with High Altitude Headache After having a couple of bananas, we were present at the meeting point at 7:45AM on 2nd July. Did I mention that our travel agent looked like Jackie Shroff?! Anyhow, the other party, which included a Taiwanese lady called Lin and an Indian man called Somak, also arrived in time. We started at 8 and were soon cruising through the typical Ladakhi landscapes that appear as though from another planet.

We then made arrangements for the next day's planned outing to Likir and Alchi. We would be sharing a taxi with two other people and would be starting the ride at 8AM. We retired to our room, full of anticipation for the excursion on the next day and also a little anxiety about our bag. And we also applied for our permits for Alchi side.        

Day 2: Shared Ride from Leh to Alchi and Back, sprinkled with High Altitude Headache

After having a couple of bananas, we were present at the meeting point at 7:45AM on 2nd July. Did I mention that our travel agent looked like Jackie Shroff?! Anyhow, the other party, which included a Taiwanese lady called Lin and an Indian man called Somak, also arrived in time. We started at 8 and were soon cruising through the typical Ladakhi landscapes that appear as though from another planet.

The first stop was Gurudwara Patthar Sahib, where we were fortunate enough to find langar. This was the first indication that our luggage woes will be resolved today. I called the airport phone number that was switched off the previous day, and sure enough, it was switched on and someone answered. They confirmed that our luggage was among almost 300 bags that were currently lying at the airport and would be delivered to our hotel between 1-2 PM. That was a big relief. We continued the ride.

The first stop was Gurudwara Patthar Sahib, where we were fortunate enough to find langar. This was the first indication that our luggage woes will be resolved today. I called the airport phone number that was switched off the previous day, and sure enough, it was switched on and someone answered. They confirmed that our luggage was among almost 300 bags that were currently lying at the airport and would be delivered to our hotel between 1-2 PM. That was a big relief. We continued the ride. 

And then suddenly our cab driver stopped the car in the middle of a road and turned it off. He then said, "dekhiye, abhi yeh car incline ke against roll hogi." and sure enough, the car seemed to be moving uphill on its own. This was the magnetic hill. I had really low expectations from this tourist point, but it did manage to surprise me. We discussed that this was probably an optical illusion - road appeared to be going uphill whereas it was actually going downhill - whatever it was, the experience was fascinating.

And then suddenly our cab driver stopped the car in the middle of a road and turned it off. He then said, "dekhiye, abhi yeh car incline ke against roll hogi." and sure enough, the car seemed to be moving uphill on its own. This was the magnetic hill. I had really low expectations from this tourist point, but it did manage to surprise me. We discussed that this was probably an optical illusion - road appeared to be going uphill whereas it was actually going downhill - whatever it was, the experience was fascinating.

We stopped briefly at Indus-Zanskar Sangam, drove all the way down to the water, and spent a few minutes there just watching the tumultuous waters of Zanskar merging into relatively calm flows of Indus, inducing some of Zanskar's craziness into Indus. This was a beautiful spot.

We stopped briefly at Indus-Zanskar Sangam, drove all the way down to the water, and spent a few minutes there just watching the tumultuous waters of Zanskar merging into relatively calm flows of Indus, inducing some of Zanskar's craziness into Indus. This was a beautiful spot. 

Then we drove toward some quaint villages, such as Basgo, toward Alchi Village. Alchi managed to make us fall in love with it at one glance. Beautiful lanes meandering through pretty cottages, various fruit trees, prayer wheels - this looked like an ideal place to stay for a few days and just soak in the environment. Along with all this, Alchi Monastery is one of the most beautiful monasteries we have seen till date. Photography is not permitted inside the monastery, but this was one place where we did not resent this fact. In fact, it was at this spot that we received a call from our hotel. Our bag had arrived. So it was indeed an auspicious day.

Then we drove toward some quaint villages, such as Basgo, toward Alchi Village. Alchi managed to make us fall in love with it at one glance. Beautiful lanes meandering through pretty cottages, various fruit trees, prayer wheels - this looked like an ideal place to stay for a few days and just soak in the environment. Along with all this, Alchi Monastery is one of the most beautiful monasteries we have seen till date. Photography is not permitted inside the monastery, but this was one place where we did not resent this fact. In fact, it was at this spot that we received a call from our hotel. Our bag had arrived. So it was indeed an auspicious day. 

After this we went to Saspol Caves. We had just parked our car there, when a European woman climbed down from the hill and very excitedly began to show us the photographs that she had clicked inside the caves. She had managed to reach all caves and click photos of the wall art inside them. There were some beautiful wall arts inside. She did mention that only very few caves had wall art, so we would need to enter each one and check. She pointed us toward the route she had taken to begin her hike. However, another cab driver warned us that one minor slip could bring us all tumbling down the steep hill. We decided to try to go as high up as we could. We did manage to reach up till the first four caves, but none of them had any paintings. The hike further seemed really treacherous, so all of us gave up and came back down.

After this we went to Saspol Caves. We had just parked our car there, when a European woman climbed down from the hill and very excitedly began to show us the photographs that she had clicked inside the caves. She had managed to reach all caves and click photos of the wall art inside them. There were some beautiful wall arts inside. She did mention that only very few caves had wall art, so we would need to enter each one and check. She pointed us toward the route she had taken to begin her hike. However, another cab driver warned us that one minor slip could bring us all tumbling down the steep hill. We decided to try to go as high up as we could. We did manage to reach up till the first four caves, but none of them had any paintings. The hike further seemed really treacherous, so all of us gave up and came back down.

The next stop was the Likir Monastery. It was closed when we got there so we decided to have lunch at a nearby cafe. We had thukpa and chai. Other people tried momos and omelet. After that, we climbed up the steps to the monastery. It was quite a beautiful one with a lovely museum.

The next stop was the Likir Monastery. It was closed when we got there so we decided to have lunch at a nearby cafe. We had thukpa and chai. Other people tried momos and omelet. After that, we climbed up the steps to the monastery. It was quite a beautiful one with a lovely museum. 

The last stop of this trip was the Hall of Fame in Leh. It is a museum dedicated to all the soldiers who made the supreme sacrifice in Indo-Pak wars. There are some amazing photographs, collections of arms and amunitions and stories that you can learn about here. There is also a Shaurya Sthal that has rows of stone markers for soldiers who were martyred during the wars.

The last stop of this trip was the Hall of Fame in Leh. It is a museum dedicated to all the soldiers who made the supreme sacrifice in Indo-Pak wars. There are some amazing photographs, collections of arms and amunitions and stories that you can learn about here. There is also a Shaurya Sthal that has rows of stone markers for soldiers who were martyred during the wars. 

After this, the trip ended near the Main Bazaar and after taking a couple of hours of rest, we again headed out to explore the streets of the main bazaar. There are some amazing shops that sell various shakes and ice creams. We had a chocolate and vanilla ice cream cone from one of these parlours, after a dinner butter chicken and roti at The Rasoi restaurant.

After this, the trip ended near the Main Bazaar and after taking a couple of hours of rest, we again headed out to explore the streets of the main bazaar. There are some amazing shops that sell various shakes and ice creams. We had a chocolate and vanilla ice cream cone from one of these parlours, after a dinner butter chicken and roti at The Rasoi restaurant.  

We arranged for our taxi for the next 6 days. This vehicle would take us through the rest of our trip in Ladakh and we wanted to ensure that it would be suitable for all sorts of terrains and also be comfortable. So we had chosen an Innova. It was going to cost us a whopping Rs. 40,000/-. This sounds expensive but was much below the government rates. So despite what you are told, please do try to bargain and get some discounts, when you are told that these are government rates.

We arranged for our taxi for the next 6 days. This vehicle would take us through the rest of our trip in Ladakh and we wanted to ensure that it would be suitable for all sorts of terrains and also be comfortable. So we had chosen an Innova. It was going to cost us a whopping Rs. 40,000/-. This sounds expensive but was much below the government rates. So despite what you are told, please do try to bargain and get some discounts, when you are told that these are government rates. 

And we also applied for our permits. 

After this we returned to our hotel and tried to sleep. And found that it wasn't as easy to do so. I think making our second day in Ladakh so hectic was a mistake. We should have stayed away at least from trying that steep trek at Saspol Caves. This was a lesson learned. Please take acclimatization seriously Vijay developed a mild headache during the night. The next day we would be travelling to Nubra, which is at a lower altitude than Leh and that was a relief, but we would be passing Khardungla, which is at a much higher altitude than Leh. So we were relieved and worried at the same time. This is the state we spent the night in.

After this we returned to our hotel and tried to sleep. And found that it wasn't as easy to do so. I think making our second day in Ladakh so hectic was a mistake. We should have stayed away at least from trying that steep trek at Saspol Caves. This was a lesson learned. Please take acclimatization seriously Vijay developed a mild headache during the night. The next day we would be travelling to Nubra, which is at a lower altitude than Leh and that was a relief, but we would be passing Khardungla, which is at a much higher altitude than Leh. So we were relieved and worried at the same time. This is the state we spent the night in. 


Day 3: Leh to Turtuk, past the Bactrian Camels

We started early the next day. The battery of our SPO2 meter had run out, we were looking for camphor (we had heard that it is effective against AMS), and we needed to buy some water. So while our companion for the next 6 days, Norbu, got diesel filled in the Innova, I went to a nearby shop to get what we needed. I found batteries and water, but no camphor. And the lady behind the counter told me not to measure the SPO2. Her advice was to stay hydrated and not keep worrying. "Enjoy karo," she said. And it really helped calm us down.

We started early the next day. The battery of our SPO2 meter had run out, we were looking for camphor (we had heard that it is effective against AMS), and we needed to buy some water. So while our companion for the next 6 days, Norbu, got diesel filled in the Innova, I went to a nearby shop to get what we needed. I found batteries and water, but no camphor. And the lady behind the counter told me not to measure the SPO2. Her advice was to stay hydrated and not keep worrying. "Enjoy karo," she said. And it really helped calm us down. 

We reached Khardungla in about 1.5 hours. Norbu had promised that we would reach in half an hour, but we came to take his estimates with a pinch of salt as the trip progressed.

We reached Khardungla in about 1.5 hours. Norbu had promised that we would reach in half an hour, but we came to take his estimates with a pinch of salt as the trip progressed. 

As we approached Khardungla, we could sense the air thinning. It wasn't just mann ka vaham. I felt a little nauseous and Vijay too felt a little breathless even though we had stepped out of our car only for a few minutes.

As we approached Khardungla, we could sense the air thinning. It wasn't just mann ka vaham. I felt a little nauseous and Vijay too felt a little breathless even though we had stepped out of our car only for a few minutes.

We drove on and were soon descending into what looked like heaven. There was a little stream flowing through a meadow with yaks grazing peacefully on either side. This was the beginning of Nubra valley. After a short ride, we reached North Pullu, a small village set on the bank of the little stream. We had our breakfast of aaloo paratha and chai here.

We drove on and were soon descending into what looked like heaven. There was a little stream flowing through a meadow with yaks grazing peacefully on either side. This was the beginning of Nubra valley. After a short ride, we reached North Pullu, a small village set on the bank of the little stream. We had our breakfast of aaloo paratha and chai here. 

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After spending some time near the stream, we moved on. 

Our next stop was the Diskit Monastery, which also has a 106ft tall stunning statue of the Maitreya Buddha in its complex, which is visible from quite a distance away. In Diskit Monastery, you need to climb twice, once for the Buddha Statue, and once for the Monastery. There are too many stairs to climb to reach the Monastery, so we decided to conserve our energy for that.

Our next stop was the Diskit Monastery, which also has a 106ft tall stunning statue of the Maitreya Buddha in its complex, which is visible from quite a distance away. In Diskit Monastery, you need to climb twice, once for the Buddha Statue, and once for the Monastery. There are too many stairs to climb to reach the Monastery, so we decided to conserve our energy for that. 

We skipped climbing the hill on top of which sits the Maitreya Buddha, because we had realized that the best photographs of a Buddha statue anyways are clicked from a distance. We climbed the stairs leading to the Monastery and from there clicked the Buddha statue as well. This, in retrospect, was a good decision, because the sun was high up in the sky and it was very hot and sunny.

We skipped climbing the hill on top of which sits the Maitreya Buddha, because we had realized that the best photographs of a Buddha statue anyways are clicked from a distance. We climbed the stairs leading to the Monastery and from there clicked the Buddha statue as well. This, in retrospect, was a good decision, because the sun was high up in the sky and it was very hot and sunny. 

After that we proceeded to Hunder sand dunes, where we were hoping to see Bactrian camels. Norbu asked us if we wanted to ride the camels. We said no, we just want to click them. He said then you will be okay because this is the camels' lunch time. But we did not need to reach the sand dunes for the first sight of the camels. We saw one standing knee-deep in a stream. It was a precious sight but we couldn't click it. And when we reached the sand dunes, the camels were no where to be seen. Norbu stopped the car and pointed to some bushes in the distance where he said we would find the camels, so we went looking for them.

After that we proceeded to Hunder sand dunes, where we were hoping to see Bactrian camels. Norbu asked us if we wanted to ride the camels. We said no, we just want to click them. He said then you will be okay because this is the camels' lunch time. But we did not need to reach the sand dunes for the first sight of the camels. We saw one standing knee-deep in a stream. It was a precious sight but we couldn't click it. And when we reached the sand dunes, the camels were no where to be seen. Norbu stopped the car and pointed to some bushes in the distance where he said we would find the camels, so we went looking for them. 

After walking for several minutes, we were close to the bushes but there was no sight of the camels still. Then we heard a sound, a hollow call much like those of the Parasaurolophus in Jurassic Park movies. Soon two camel calves emerged from the bushes, headed toward us at alarming speeds. Just before we could panic, they changed their direction and headed for the bushes toward our right. And that is when we saw them - two full-grown Bactrian camels tied loosely to trees and grazing calmly. While we were still clicking them, a juvenile emerged from the bushes and started walking straight toward us. It then turned and started walking toward the dunes. For some reason, we decided to follow it.

After walking for several minutes, we were close to the bushes but there was no sight of the camels still. Then we heard a sound, a hollow call much like those of the Parasaurolophus in Jurassic Park movies. Soon two camel calves emerged from the bushes, headed toward us at alarming speeds. Just before we could panic, they changed their direction and headed for the bushes toward our right. And that is when we saw them - two full-grown Bactrian camels tied loosely to trees and grazing calmly. While we were still clicking them, a juvenile emerged from the bushes and started walking straight toward us. It then turned and started walking toward the dunes. For some reason, we decided to follow it. 

Just before it reached the dunes, it abruptly turned toward the bushes again. We had clicked some pictures of it so we decided to continue toward the dunes, in the hopes of finding some camels actually walking on the dunes. We were further motivated by a camel we saw emerging on the top of a dune at a distance. So we started walking on the dunes. However, the sand was hot and in a few minutes the sole of Vijay's shoe came off. He used my hair tie to hold it together. But we had to quit the dunes after that. We had some pictures, but not the ones we had dreamed of. Nevertheless, we decided to head on.

Just before it reached the dunes, it abruptly turned toward the bushes again. We had clicked some pictures of it so we decided to continue toward the dunes, in the hopes of finding some camels actually walking on the dunes. We were further motivated by a camel we saw emerging on the top of a dune at a distance. So we started walking on the dunes. However, the sand was hot and in a few minutes the sole of Vijay's shoe came off. He used my hair tie to hold it together. But we had to quit the dunes after that. We had some pictures, but not the ones we had dreamed of. Nevertheless, we decided to head on.

We stopped briefly for lunch in Hunder town and then proceeded to Turtuk. At some point, the River Shyok joined us. As we inched closer to Turtuk, the river got wilder and wilder. Its brown silt-laden waters rushed along over rapids. We crossed a couple of bridges where only one vehicle was allowed to cross at a time. After what seemed like ages, we reached the Shyok War Memorial. We got down for a few minutes here and then were on our way again.

We stopped briefly for lunch in Hunder town and then proceeded to Turtuk. At some point, the River Shyok joined us. As we inched closer to Turtuk, the river got wilder and wilder. Its brown silt-laden waters rushed along over rapids. We crossed a couple of bridges where only one vehicle was allowed to cross at a time. After what seemed like ages, we reached the  Shyok War Memorial. We got down for a few minutes here and then were on our way again.

It was 5PM by the time we reached Turtuk. We decided to go to the Turtuk Palace and Museum and check if it was still open, even before we check into our guest house. And yes, the palace was open. We purchased the ticket and then headed to the Diwan-e-khas on first floor to meet the current Raja of Baltistan, who educated us about the history of Batlistan and his ancestors. Then a young Balti woman took us around the ground floor educating us about the various rooms and utensils placed in them. It was an interesting experience.

It was 5PM by the time we reached Turtuk. We decided to go to the Turtuk Palace and Museum and check if it was still open, even before we check into our guest house. And yes, the palace was open. We purchased the ticket and then headed to the Diwan-e-khas on first floor to meet the current Raja of Baltistan, who educated us about the history of Batlistan and his ancestors. Then a young Balti woman took us around the ground floor educating us about the various rooms and utensils placed in them. It was an interesting experience. 

Then we checked into Rainbow guest house which happened to be very close to the Palace. For dinner we crossed the stream and headed to The Balti Kitchen. The village on this side of the stream appeared cleaner and more prosperous. The Balti Kitchen too was a tastefully designed restaurant with wooden gazebos, where people could sit, have food, and stay connected with the green surroundings. We ordered Kisir and Grangthur, which is a combination of yogurt-based curry with local herbs and unsweetened pancakes made out of buckwheat. The curry was quite tasty and we pledged to try it at home. Then we came back to the hotel and turned in for the night.

Then we checked into Rainbow guest house which happened to be very close to the Palace. For dinner we crossed the stream and headed to The Balti Kitchen. The village on this side of the stream appeared cleaner and more prosperous. The Balti Kitchen too was a tastefully designed restaurant with wooden gazebos, where people could sit, have food, and stay connected with the green surroundings. We ordered Kisir and Grangthur, which is a combination of yogurt-based curry with local herbs and unsweetened pancakes made out of buckwheat. The curry was quite tasty and we pledged to try it at home. Then we came back to the hotel and turned in for the night. 

Day 4: Turtuk to Sumur and Praying with the Monks at Samstaling Gompa

We woke up early next morning to the chirping of birds and braying of someone's pet donkey. It was a unique way to wake up. Then we packed, took baths and started early. First we drove onward toward Thang, the last village on the Indian side of the LOC. Here we saw Villages on the Pakistani side of the LOC and Pakistani and Indian Bunkers. It was a weird feeling to know that this village and Turtuk were on Pakistani side of LOC till 1971.

We woke up early next morning to the chirping of birds and braying of someone's pet donkey. It was a unique way to wake up. Then we packed, took baths and started early. First we drove onward toward Thang, the last village on the Indian side of the LOC. Here we saw Villages on the Pakistani side of the LOC and Pakistani and Indian Bunkers. It was a weird feeling to know that this village and Turtuk were on Pakistani side of LOC till 1971. 

We then started back toward Hunder so that we could drive to the other side of the Nubra Valley. The drive was long, and we took a break near Diskit for brunch. After that we drove straight to Panamik, past Sumur. We climbed a little to see the Panamik hot springs. The water was quite hot and had left orange stains with its flow. After spending a few minutes here, we headed back down and started our drive back to Sumur.

We then started back toward Hunder so that we could drive to the other side of the Nubra Valley. The drive was long, and we took a break near Diskit for brunch. After that we drove straight to Panamik, past Sumur. We climbed a little to see the Panamik hot springs. The water was quite hot and had left orange stains with its flow. After spending a few minutes here, we headed back down and started our drive back to Sumur. 

On the way, we had planned to stop at Yarab Tso. However, Norbu asked if we actually wanted to visit the Tso. He mentioned that we would need to hike up a mountain and then down to reach the Tso. When I was planning the itinerary, I did not know this. We decided to take a look at the mountain and then decide. When we reached there, we thought that the mountain, or rather hill, wasn't that imposing. So we decided to try the hike.

On the way, we had planned to stop at Yarab Tso. However, Norbu asked if we actually wanted to visit the Tso. He mentioned that we would need to hike up a mountain and then down to reach the Tso. When I was planning the itinerary, I did not know this. We decided to take a look at the mountain and then decide. When we reached there, we thought that the mountain, or rather hill, wasn't that imposing. So we decided to try the hike. 

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As it often happens, the hike turned out to be a little more difficult than we had expected. It was sunny, and that made it all the more difficult, but when we reached the top, the view of the Tso on the other side made us forget how difficult the hike was. It was a circular Tso, with a walk made of rocks and cement on all sides. The water was clear and even though it was sunny, there was a pleasant breeze flowing. We climbed down and walked around the lake. I don't know why, but it seemed like the right thing to do. Then we hiked back up and down and were on our way to the next stop, Samstaling Gompa.

The Samstaling Gompa is a beautiful Monastery in Sumur. It isn't too old, but is very peaceful. This was also the first monastery where we actually attended the prayers.

The Samstaling Gompa is a beautiful Monastery in Sumur. It isn't too old, but is very peaceful. This was also the first monastery where we actually attended the prayers. 

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We saw the prayers going on in the temple, and stood outside watching them. One of the monks gestured us in. We sat inside respectfully, not daring to record anything or click any photographs. After about half an hour, we bowed out. Outside, Vijay asked a monk if we can click pictures inside, he said yes. So Vijay went back inside and clicked some pictures of the prayers in progress. We absolutely loved this place. 

Then we headed to Sumur sand dunes. The camels here had retired for the day. They were being brushed and fed. But here, I found a very friendly camel. I chased it for a few minutes, and after that it ensured that there was never a distance of more than a few feet between the both of us. It was a very sweet animal.

Then we headed to Sumur sand dunes. The camels here had retired for the day. They were being brushed and fed. But here, I found a very friendly camel. I chased it for a few minutes, and after that it ensured that there was never a distance of more than a few feet between the both of us. It was a very sweet animal. 

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Moreover, the dunes on Sumur side are much more beautiful than the ones at Hunder. 

At last, we headed to our guest house, De Khama. It was a new building constructed mostly of timber. The room was very pretty and the garden outside even prettier. I hadn't seen so many roses on a single bush before this. The dinner here was great. Dal, mix veg, paalak paneer, roti, papad, rice, and gulab jamun. And most of the vegetables were home grown. After dinner, we sat on the porch for a while and roamed around the garden. The sky was full of stars and a breeze was flowing. It was very pleasant. We slept early.

At last, we headed to our guest house, De Khama. It was a new building constructed mostly of timber. The room was very pretty and the garden outside even prettier. I hadn't seen so many roses on a single bush before this.  The dinner here was great. Dal, mix veg, paalak paneer, roti, papad, rice, and gulab jamun. And most of the vegetables were home grown. After dinner, we sat on the porch for a while and roamed around the garden. The sky was full of stars and a breeze was flowing. It was very pleasant. We slept early. 

Day 5: Sumur to Pangong Tso with a dash of High Altitude Headache

Next morning, we had tea at the De Khama guest house and started at 8AM for Pangong Tso. There are two important aspects to this journey - one, as the day progresses, the snow in the glaciers starts melting and the water in the streams increases. As a result, it gets more and more tricky to traverse the roads on this route, so it is better to start early in the morning. Two, the altitude difference between Sumur and Pangong Tso is almost 1200 meters. So it is important to prepare for this proactively. Stay hydrated on your way to Pangong tso. Do not exert, and carry appropriate medicines for High Altitude Headache. It is better to also have disposable oxygen cylinder if someone is at risk.

Next morning, we had tea at the De Khama guest house and started at 8AM for Pangong Tso. There are two important aspects to this journey - one, as the day progresses, the snow in the glaciers starts melting and the water in the streams increases. As a result, it gets more and more tricky to traverse the roads on this route, so it is better to start early in the morning. Two, the altitude difference between Sumur and Pangong Tso is almost 1200 meters. So it is important to prepare for this proactively. Stay hydrated on your way to Pangong tso. Do not exert, and carry appropriate medicines for High Altitude Headache. It is better to also have disposable oxygen cylinder if someone is at risk. 

....

So we were soon crossing tricky terrains. Norbu joked about these stretches, he referred to them as levels, as though in a video game. And in fact it was exactly like that. Each hurdle was harder to cross than the previous one. 

And Norbu had told us that there were 5 levels. In fact, we did see some pretty scary scenes on the way. At level 1, we saw that a car had drifted toward the river and was stuck there in water, with its bonnet almost submerged. There were 3-4 people standing there and looking into the bonnet. There was a JCB standing next to it. It took us around 15 minutes to cross that stretch and within that time the JCB had started climbing back up. It seemed really unlikely that the car would be rescued any time soon, and all this while, the water was rising further. There was nothing we could do for them. They would probably need to leave their vehicle behind.

And Norbu had told us that there were 5 levels. In fact, we did see some pretty scary scenes on the way. At level 1, we saw that a car had drifted toward the river and was stuck there in water, with its bonnet almost submerged. There were 3-4 people standing there and looking into the bonnet. There was a JCB standing next to it. It took us around 15 minutes to cross that stretch and within that time the JCB had started climbing back up. It seemed really unlikely that the car would be rescued any time soon, and all this while, the water was rising further. There was nothing we could do for them. They would probably need to leave their vehicle behind. 

After crossing the five levels, we reached Tangtse and here you can see the beautiful river Tangtse flowing alongside the road. There are bushes with pink flowers on both the sides of the river. If you get a chance do pause here and click a picture. You won't get these views anywhere else.

After crossing the five levels, we reached Tangtse and here you can see the beautiful river Tangtse flowing alongside the road. There are bushes with pink flowers on both the sides of the river. If you get a chance do pause here and click a picture. You won't get these views anywhere else. 

On the way, we stopped to see the Himalayan Mormots. These were friendly animals and weren't afraid of human beings. Not sure if it is good for them though. They were coming very close to the crowd and the crowd to wanted to pet them, feed them, even though it was written that it is a crime to feed these animals. The sign stopped everyone but a few cyclists, who were feeding them biscuits. Not sure how they knew that biscuits were suitable food for mormots. If they didn't know and still fed them, it was highly callous of them, wasn't it?

On the way, we stopped to see the Himalayan Mormots. These were friendly animals and weren't afraid of human beings. Not sure if it is good for them though. They were coming very close to the crowd and the crowd to wanted to pet them, feed them, even though it was written that it is a crime to feed these animals. The sign stopped everyone but a few cyclists, who were feeding them biscuits. Not sure how they knew that biscuits were suitable food for mormots. If they didn't know and still fed them, it was highly callous of them, wasn't it?

....

In some time, we had our first view of the Pangong Tso. "Aaj Pangong Tso dull hoga," proclaimed Norbu. It was cloudy and surely enough, Pangong Tso was grey instead of startling blue it usually is. But something told me that we would have our clicks. 

We reached Lukung and checked into Pangong Rainbow Cottages. These cottages overlooked Pangong Tso. We decided to have some lunch somewhere close by and then sit on a watch for some sunshine that would make the Tso startling blue. We still had good 4 hours of sunshine left, provided the clouds would give us some reprieve.

We reached Lukung and checked into Pangong Rainbow Cottages. These cottages overlooked Pangong Tso. We decided to have some lunch somewhere close by and then sit on a watch for some sunshine that would make the Tso startling blue. We still had good 4 hours of sunshine left, provided the clouds would give us some reprieve. 

While the sky did not completely clear, we did manage to get quite a few moments when parts of the lake reflected the cerulean blue and gave us perfect shots. We roamed around the shore for quite some time, exploring the beach on foot as far as we could go, and then returned to our cottage. The owner of the property, Dorjay, laid out a couple of armchairs outside and we sat there looking at the lake. Very few sights can be as peaceful as the Pangong Tso.

While the sky did not completely clear, we did manage to get quite a few moments when parts of the lake reflected the cerulean blue and gave us perfect shots. We roamed around the shore for quite some time, exploring the beach on foot as far as we could go, and then returned to our cottage. The owner of the property, Dorjay, laid out a couple of armchairs outside and we sat there looking at the lake. Very few sights can be as peaceful as the Pangong Tso. 

Dorjay and his helper prepared an amazing spread for us for dinner. A very good hot soup, daal, mix vegetable, roti and rice. They were very generous with their offers of tea and warm water. Overall, we felt very well taken care of here.

Dorjay and his helper prepared an amazing spread for us for dinner. A very good hot soup, daal, mix vegetable, roti and rice. They were very generous with their offers of tea and warm water. Overall, we felt very well taken care of here. 

By the time we turned in, a wild, cold wind was howling outside. Still, we did fall asleep in no time. However, it wasn't destined to be this peaceful. I couldn't sleep the entire night. Not sure what kept me up. And I felt that I had to keep an eye on Vijay, because even though he is from the mountains, he is more susceptible to many things than I am. I was acutely aware of the altitude, but I hadn't shared these thoughts with him.

By the time we turned in, a wild, cold wind was howling outside. Still, we did fall asleep in no time. However, it wasn't destined to be this peaceful. I couldn't sleep the entire night. Not sure what kept me up. And I felt that I had to keep an eye on Vijay, because even though he is from the mountains, he is more susceptible to many things than I am. I was acutely aware of the altitude, but I hadn't shared these thoughts with him. 

Sure enough, in a few minutes, he woke up and mentioned a mild headache. Then promptly went back to sleep. I kept a watch for some time and was hoping that the sleep would ease his headache, but I was wrong. He woke up again a couple of hours later - the headache had gotten worse. I read about whether crocin was a suitable medication, and it turned out that it was. So he took one pill, and went back to sleep. I kept on reading about High Altitude Headache and AMS. And trust me, if you do this, you too will panic. I told him that we may not be able to proceed to Tso Moriri and may have to go back to Leh the next morning. This gave both of us considerable stress. At 5AM, we asked Dorjay for tea and he promptly prepared it. Vijay felt better after having it, and went back to sleep for a bit.

Sure enough, in a few minutes, he woke up and mentioned a mild headache. Then promptly went back to sleep. I kept a watch for some time and was hoping that the sleep would ease his headache, but I was wrong. He woke up again a couple of hours later - the headache had gotten worse. I read about whether crocin was a suitable medication, and it turned out that it was. So he took one pill, and went back to sleep. I kept on reading about High Altitude Headache and AMS. And trust me, if you do this, you too will panic. I told him that we may not be able to proceed to Tso Moriri and may have to go back to Leh the next morning. This gave both of us considerable stress. At 5AM, we asked Dorjay for tea and he promptly prepared it. Vijay felt better after having it, and went back to sleep for a bit. 

I took this opportunity to discuss our dilemma with Dorjay and an employee of a nearby property. They assured me that nearly 30% of people who visit Pangong Tso get a headache, and staying hydrated mostly takes care of everything. I also asked if we should proceed to Tso Moriri. I was worried because that is around 250m higher than Pangong Tso. They assured me that it will be fine. I was comforted but not completely at ease. But since we had Norbu with us, and in worst case, we could always leave in case things got worse, we proceeded to Tso Moriri.

I took this opportunity to discuss our dilemma with Dorjay and an employee of a nearby property. They assured me that nearly 30% of people who visit Pangong Tso get a headache, and staying hydrated mostly takes care of everything. I also asked if we should proceed to Tso Moriri. I was worried because that is around 250m higher than Pangong Tso. They assured me that it will be fine. I was comforted but not completely at ease. But since we had Norbu with us, and in worst case, we could always leave in case things got worse, we proceeded to Tso Moriri.  

Day 6: Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri via Kaksang La We started the drive early at 7am. For a long time, we were driving along Pangong Tso. We crossed Spangmik, then Man, and then Merak. The last village on our route on the shore of Pangong Tso was Kakstet. We stopped here for some time and clicked a few pictures.

Day 6: Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri via Kaksang La

We started the drive early at 7am. For a long time, we were driving along Pangong Tso. We crossed Spangmik, then Man, and then Merak. The last village on our route on the shore of Pangong Tso was Kakstet. We stopped here for some time and clicked a few pictures. 

Then we said goodbye to Pangong Tso and proceeded toward Chushul. Chushul is a small village close to the LOC between India and China.

Then we said goodbye to Pangong Tso and proceeded toward Chushul. Chushul is a small village close to the LOC between India and China. 

Rezangla is a few kilometers from here. And just below Rezangla is The Rezangla War Memorial. This is a must-visit place. It has a gallery dedicated to Major Shaitan Singh and his 113 soldiers, who laid down their lives in 1962 Indo-China war.

Rezangla is a few kilometers from here. And just below Rezangla is The Rezangla War Memorial. This is a must-visit place. It has a gallery dedicated to Major Shaitan Singh and his 113 soldiers, who laid down their lives in 1962 Indo-China war. 

After that we drove back to Chushul and then headed toward Kaksang La. The route was quite interesting. We crossed a startling blue Mirpal Tso. Then we started the zig-zag climb toward kaksang la top. As we reached the top, we saw a herd of wild kiangs (Tibetan Wild Ass) in a distance. They were galloping away from us. A drone had apparently spooked them. We couldn't click them, because they were too far.

After that we drove back to Chushul and then headed toward Kaksang La. The route was quite interesting. We crossed a startling blue Mirpal Tso. Then we started the zig-zag climb toward kaksang la top. As we reached the top, we saw a herd of wild kiangs (Tibetan Wild Ass) in a distance. They were galloping away from us. A drone had apparently spooked them. We couldn't click them, because they were too far.   

We stopped for a bit at the top. The wind was really strong and it was snowing a bit. Needless to say, it was very cold. One tourist lost his hat to the wind, and that was the cue for us to get back into the car and head off.

We stopped for a bit at the top. The wind was really strong and it was snowing a bit. Needless to say, it was very cold. One tourist lost his hat to the wind, and that was the cue for us to get back into the car and head off. 

After crossing the Kaksang la top and upon beginning the descent, Yaya Tso came into the view. It was a beautiful lake, though another place that we needed to click from the car. We couldn't drive down to it and it was too cold to walk.

After crossing the Kaksang la top and upon beginning the descent, Yaya Tso came into the view. It was a beautiful lake, though another place that we needed to click from the car. We couldn't drive down to it and it was too cold to walk. 

Soon, we reached Mahe village and got our permits checked and proceeded toward Tso Moriri. We took left before the Sumdo village and crossed Kyagar Tso. That looked like a nice place to camp, but we were keen on Tso Moriri. Moreover, all the camps around Kyagar seemed like they were set up by travellers themselves. And we were not carrying any camps! So we continued on.

Soon, we reached Mahe village and got our permits checked and proceeded toward Tso Moriri. We took left before the Sumdo village and crossed Kyagar Tso. That looked like a nice place to camp, but we were keen on Tso Moriri. Moreover, all the camps around Kyagar seemed like they were set up by travellers themselves. And we were not carrying any camps!  So we continued on.

Soon we were in Karzok, the only village on the bank of Tso Moriri. We had a quick lunch at one of the local restaurants and then started searching for a place to stay. We found out that the rooms in even the most average of the homestays too were very expensive. We managed to find a cottage on the banks of the little stream that flows through the village for a more reasonable price and checked in.

Soon we were in Karzok, the only village on the bank of Tso Moriri. We had a quick lunch at one of the local restaurants and then started searching for a place to stay. We found out that the rooms in even the most average of the homestays too were very expensive. We managed to find a cottage on the banks of the little stream that flows through the village for a more reasonable price and checked in. 

After visiting the Tso Moriri Viewpoint, where sand keeps flying about, we asked around about places to see. It turned out there wasn't much to do. From this property, even though the Tso was visible, it was at a distance. We would need to walk through cattle enclosures where some very cute calves were tied up, and meadows to reach it. It seemed like a pleasant enough walk. So we went for it. It took us about half-an-hour to reach the shore. On the way, we sat for a bit on the lush grass in the meadow, and then finally upon reaching the shore, we sat on the sand for some time, waiting for sunset. This was a mistake, because it was steadily growing colder.

After visiting the Tso Moriri Viewpoint, where sand keeps flying about, we asked around about places to see. It turned out there wasn't much to do. From this property, even though the Tso was visible, it was at a distance. We would need to walk through cattle enclosures where some very cute calves were tied up, and meadows to reach it. It seemed like a pleasant enough walk. So we went for it. It took us about half-an-hour to reach the shore. On the way, we sat for a bit on the lush grass in the meadow, and then finally upon reaching the shore, we sat on the sand for some time, waiting for sunset. This was a mistake, because it was steadily growing colder. 

By the time we started back home, Village dogs had become active and were barking at a distance. After walking for a bit, we realized that they were right in our way. A lone, brave soul was walking through them toward us, carrying a camping kit. As we inched closer, we realized that he too was afraid, and was turning back and looking at the dogs again and again. There were four dogs in total and there were the three of us, including the stranger. I thought standing close together for some time and acting nonchalant would make the dogs lose interest. So I casually asked the stranger if he was afraid of the dogs. The gentleman seemed to be from Israel, and was apparently planning to spend the night close to the lake. He answered that he wasn't afraid, but kept looking at the dogs. After seeing the three of us standing together and talking casually, the dogs actually lost interest in us.

By the time we started back home, Village dogs had become active and were barking at a distance. After walking for a bit, we realized that they were right in our way. A lone, brave soul was walking through them toward us, carrying a camping kit. As we inched closer, we realized that he too was afraid, and was turning back and looking at the dogs again and again. There were four dogs in total and there were the three of us, including the stranger. I thought standing close together for some time and acting nonchalant would make the dogs lose interest. So I casually asked the stranger if he was afraid of the dogs. The gentleman seemed to be from Israel, and was apparently planning to spend the night close to the lake. He answered that he wasn't afraid, but kept looking at the dogs. After seeing the three of us standing together and talking casually, the dogs actually lost interest in us. 

After a couple of minutes, we went our own way. However, I was nervous all through and kept silently praying that the dogs wouldn't realize that we had pulled a trick on them. We only breathed a sigh of relief when we entered the cattle enclosures. The calves were now being led back to the warmth of their sheds, and the villagers were now turning in for the day.

After a couple of minutes, we went our own way. However, I was nervous all through and kept silently praying that the dogs wouldn't realize that we had pulled a trick on them. We only breathed a sigh of relief when we entered the cattle enclosures. The calves were now being led back to the warmth of their sheds, and the villagers were now turning in for the day. 

By the time we reached our cabin, we almost felt sick because of the cold. So both of us buried ourselves in the blankets. And it was at this moment that there was a knock on the door, announcing that dinner was ready. It took a lot of courage to get out of the quilts and head to the tent where dinner was laid out. However, our experience had taught us that we should not skip dinner. So we had soup and the meal, which was again daal, mix veg, roti and rice, and then went into the cottage to sleep. Thankfully we had a peaceful sleep that night.

By the time we reached our cabin, we almost felt sick because of the cold. So both of us buried ourselves in the blankets. And it was at this moment that there was a knock on the door, announcing that dinner was ready. It took a lot of courage to get out of the quilts and head to the tent where dinner was laid out. However, our experience had taught us that we should not skip dinner. So we had soup and the meal, which was again daal, mix veg, roti and rice, and then went into the cottage to sleep. Thankfully we had a peaceful sleep that night.   

Day 7: Tso Moriri to Hemis Monastery, stay at the Monastery

As per our original plan, we were to stay at Rumtse on Day 7. We started at 8am, which was later than usual for us. While we were crossing the Kyagar Lake, Norbu informed us that there was a celebration of Dalai Lama's birthday here the previous night (July 6th). In fact, we did recall him jumping into his taxi with his buddy and driving off somewhere. We realized that it might have been to this celebration. Apparently there are prayers, cake-cutting, dances etc. I wish he had told us earlier.

As per our original plan, we were to stay at Rumtse on Day 7. We started at 8am, which was later than usual for us. While we were crossing the Kyagar Lake, Norbu informed us that there was a celebration of Dalai Lama's birthday here the previous night (July 6th). In fact, we did recall him jumping into his taxi with his buddy and driving off somewhere. We realized that it might have been to this celebration. Apparently there are prayers, cake-cutting, dances etc. I wish he had told us earlier. 

Anyway, soon we reached Sumdo and took a left from here. In a few minutes we were close to Puga, and could see the geyser spouting steam and hot water in the distance. The walk from the road to the geyser looked easy enough. But Norbu warned us that this was marshy land and it is difficult to cross. He told about the time when he had crossed it. "I was sucked down till my waist," he mentioned. "So cross this if you want to, but at your own risk."

Anyway, soon we reached Sumdo and took a left from here. In a few minutes we were close to Puga, and could see the geyser spouting steam and hot water in the distance. The walk from the road to the geyser looked easy enough. But Norbu warned us that this was marshy land and it is difficult to cross. He told about the time when he had crossed it. "I was sucked down till my waist," he mentioned. "So cross this if you want to, but at your own risk."

But we had seen several Vloggers talking about this geyser and they hadn't talked about getting there being difficult. So we started the walk along with another couple who seemed similarly optimistic. As you can imagine, things quickly got interesting.

But we had seen several Vloggers talking about this geyser and they hadn't talked about getting there being difficult. So we started the walk along with another couple who seemed similarly optimistic. As you can imagine, things quickly got interesting. 

The landscape here is very unusual. You can see grassy mounds rising out like islands in water. These mounds could sustain our weight, and from where we stood, it seemed that we would be able to hop from mound to mound to get to the geyser. So we started the hops. It was fun. However, we had only gone a few meters when the mounds started becoming more and more far apart. And soon, we saw that if we had to go any further, we would need to remove our shoes and step into the water, which looked shallow enough.

The landscape here is very unusual. You can see grassy mounds rising out like islands in water. These mounds could sustain our weight, and from where we stood, it seemed that we would be able to hop from mound to mound to get to the geyser. So we started the hops. It was fun. However, we had only gone a few meters when the mounds started becoming more and more far apart. And soon, we saw that if we had to go any further, we would need to remove our shoes and step into the water, which looked shallow enough. 

The other couple gave up at this point, and we were discussing whether we should remove our shoes, when three excited Punjabi men joined us. They looked at Vijay's camera and commented that we should definitely move forward. However, something held us back. These men, then decided to brave their way forward. The water seemed to stay shallow and they were able to move forward without getting their jeans wet. Then suddenly, one of them yelled. His leg had gone down into the marsh, up to his knee. It was good that he had folded his jeans, but when he was trying to pull his leg out, his slipper decided to stay back. He poked around a little, but the slipper had vanished. This incident hastened the decision for us. We stayed back and recorded them traversing the marsh instead.

The other couple gave up at this point, and we were discussing whether we should remove our shoes, when three excited Punjabi men joined us. They looked at Vijay's camera and commented that we should definitely move forward. However, something held us back. These men, then decided to brave their way forward. The water seemed to stay shallow and they were able to move forward without getting their jeans wet. Then suddenly, one of them yelled. His leg had gone down into the marsh, up to his knee. It was good that he had folded his jeans, but when he was trying to pull his leg out, his slipper decided to stay back. He poked around a little, but the slipper had vanished. This incident hastened the decision for us. We stayed back and recorded them traversing the marsh instead. 

....

They went ahead making jokes, laughing all the way and making us all laugh as well. I am glad to say that they made it and the worst that they got was a lost slipper and couple of dirty jeans. When they reached the geyser they celebrated as if they had scaled Mount Everest. But they made it fun for us as well. 

Apart from the geyser, the landscape was beautiful and we also saw our first rose finch here.

Apart from the geyser, the landscape was beautiful and we also saw our first rose finch here. 

Rose Finch was a beautiful bird. Even though we couldn't make it to the geyser, I would stay that the stop at Puga was worth it.


Rose Finch was a beautiful bird. Even though we couldn't make it to the geyser, I would stay that the stop at Puga was worth it. 

The next stop was supposed to be at Tso Kar. We did pause on the road for a few minutes here, but it wasn't a long pause. Mostly because we discovered that the lake has dried up significantly. This lake was once the biggest source of edible salt for Ladakh. It is now a shadow of itself. We stopped, clicked a few pictures, and then proceeded to Tanglang La.

The next stop was supposed to be at Tso Kar. We did pause on the road for a few minutes here, but it wasn't a long pause. Mostly because we discovered that the lake has dried up significantly. This lake was once the biggest source of edible salt for Ladakh. It is now a shadow of itself. We stopped, clicked a few pictures, and then proceeded to Tanglang La. 

....

A few kilometers before the Tanglang La pass, just when the Manali-Leh highway becomes visible in the distance, we noticed that nature had painted a perfect heart with snow on a peak in the distance. 

When I pointed this heart shaped snow patch out, Norbu, who had stayed unaffected by the most spectacular landscapes so far, was very moved by this sight. "Nature kya kya bana deti hai," he exclaimed clicked a photo on his mobile.

When I pointed this heart shaped snow patch out, Norbu, who had stayed unaffected by the most spectacular landscapes so far, was very moved by this sight. "Nature kya kya bana deti hai," he exclaimed clicked a photo on his mobile. 

At the altitude of 5,328 meters, Tanglang la is one of the many high altitude passes in Ladakh. We saw some Kiang close to this pass as well. And I think mostly because this is on Manali-Leh Highway, the spot was full of tourists. It was cold, but we braved it and got a picture clicked here.

At the altitude of 5,328 meters, Tanglang la is one of the many high altitude passes in Ladakh. We saw some Kiang close to this pass as well. And I think mostly because this is on Manali-Leh Highway, the spot was full of tourists. It was cold, but we braved it and got a picture clicked here. 

After that we started on the drive down. In no time, we were at Rumtse. It wasn't even 11am. We felt that we had a lot to cover the next day, so we decided to pull something into the day 7 so that we would have a comfortable Day 8. We decided to go till Hemis on Day 7.

After that we started on the drive down. In no time, we were at Rumtse. It wasn't even 11am. We felt that we had a lot to cover the next day, so we decided to pull something into the day 7 so that we would have a comfortable Day 8. We decided to go till Hemis on Day 7. 

So we continued on. Gya village is very close to Rumtse. We knew that there was a monastery here that we could see. Good thing was that the car could drive right up to the entrance gate. However, upon reaching the monastery we realized that it was closed. We tried calling out to the monks, but there was no response. So we headed back down after clicking a few pictures.

So we continued on. Gya village is very close to Rumtse. We knew that there was a monastery here that we could see. Good thing was that the car could drive right up to the entrance gate. However, upon reaching the monastery we realized that it was closed. We tried calling out to the monks, but there was no response. So we headed back down after clicking a few pictures. 

After driving alongside the Kyamar Lungpa (the small stream that flows alongside the Rumtse and Gya villages) for a few minutes, we found a spot that was beautiful with rocks and bushes making the landscape surreal. We stopped there and clicked a few pictures. It was fun.

After driving alongside the Kyamar Lungpa (the small stream that flows alongside the Rumtse and Gya villages) for a few minutes, we found a spot that was beautiful with rocks and bushes making the landscape surreal. We stopped there and clicked a few pictures. It was fun. 

We also noticed that the mountains in this region were ridged and almost red in color. It may be because they are rich in iron oxide. They form a startling backdrop to the little stream and flowery bushes. I did not see such mountains anywhere else in Ladakh.

We also noticed that the mountains in this region were ridged and almost red in color. It may be because they are rich in iron oxide. They form a startling backdrop to the little stream and flowery bushes. I did not see such mountains anywhere else in Ladakh. 

Soon we were at Upshi. This was the one place where I felt that we were back on earth from heaven. Several big roads meet here and as a result there is a lot of big traffic here. The disillusionment does not last for too long though. Soon you find yourself driving parallel to the Indus River, and you are back in heaven.

Soon we were at Upshi. This was the one place where I felt that we were back on earth from heaven. Several big roads meet here and as a result there is a lot of big traffic here. The disillusionment does not last for too long though. Soon you find yourself driving parallel to the Indus River, and you are back in heaven. 

For Hemis Monastery, you need to take a left a few kilometers after Upshi. We took this turn and started driving toward the monastery. It was a pleasant drive. By the time we reached the monastery, we were very hungry, so we decided to have some lunch at a little restaurant at the entrance of the monastery. We were having thukpa, when Vijay had a brainwave - why not stay in the monastery tonight?

For Hemis Monastery, you need to take a left a few kilometers after Upshi. We took this turn and started driving toward the monastery. It was a pleasant drive. By the time we reached the monastery, we were very hungry, so we decided to have some lunch at a little restaurant at the entrance of the monastery. We were having thukpa, when Vijay had a brainwave - why not stay in the monastery tonight?

We asked around and sure enough, there were room available inside the monastery. The monk who was in charge of the guest house showed us the room. It was a basic room with just two single beds placed in the opposite sides of the room. the bathroom was shared. However, it was quite apparent that we were the only ones staying in the guest house, so we decided to go for it, mainly for the experience.

We asked around and sure enough, there were room available inside the monastery. The monk who was in charge of the guest house showed us the room. It was a basic room with just two single beds placed in the opposite sides of the room. the bathroom was shared. However, it was quite apparent that we were the only ones staying in the guest house, so we decided to go for it, mainly for the experience. 

We paid up, informed Norbu, and then went to explore the monastery. There was a very interesting museum in the monastery that had several interesting paintings, photographs, ornaments, etc of the Drukpa lineage. We also visited the temple and when we were leaving, the monk who had checked us in invited us to the morning prayers at 6am the next morning.

We paid up, informed Norbu, and then went to explore the monastery. There was a very interesting museum in the monastery that had several interesting paintings, photographs, ornaments, etc of the Drukpa lineage. We also visited the temple and when we were leaving, the monk who had checked us in invited us to the morning prayers at 6am the next morning. 

We walked around the Hemis village a bit, ran into some little monks. They were probably 8 or 9 years old, and were sitting near a water tank, chit chatting like any other kids their age. We asked them about their lives in the monastery. They informed us that Sunday is a holiday for them and that they were having tests nowadays. We also saw a little monk roaming around with what looked like his family. We then realized that families of many of these monks would be visiting them in the same way like parents visits their children in hostels. We realized that even though these little children were dressed in monk attire, they were after all children. And we would find more evidence the next day as well.

We walked around the Hemis village a bit, ran into some little monks. They were probably 8 or 9 years old, and were sitting near a water tank, chit chatting like any other kids their age. We asked them about their lives in the monastery. They informed us that Sunday is a holiday for them and that they were having tests nowadays. We also saw a little monk roaming around with what looked like his family. We then realized that families of many of these monks would be visiting them in the same way like parents visits their children in hostels. We realized that even though these little children were dressed in monk attire, they were after all children. And we would find more evidence the next day as well.   

At around 7:30pm, we went to have dinner at the same restaurant. Rajma chawal were on the menu and was just the food we needed. We took our time finishing it and then went back to our room. To be honest, being the only two human beings in this huge building was a little scary and we were very aware of the fact that neither the main gate of the guest house, nor the door to our room could be locked from the inside. We began imagining the worst. It will not be right to say that we had a good night sleep.

At around 7:30pm, we went to have dinner at the same restaurant. Rajma chawal were on the menu and was just the food we needed. We took our time finishing it and then went back to our room. To be honest, being the only two human beings in this huge building was a little scary and we were very aware of the fact that neither the main gate of the guest house, nor the door to our room could be locked from the inside. We began imagining the worst. It will not be right to say that we had a good night sleep. 

Day 8: Hemis Monastery to Leh, Running into Celebrities 

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Next morning we woke up at 5AM, got ready, and went for the prayers. Apart from us, 2 other outsiders were also there to experience the prayers. Exactly at 6AM, the lead monk started chanting and all other monks slowly gathered in the central hall. They had laid out a couple of carpets for us to sit on as well, so we went and sat there. The little monks sat on the seats behind us and they were eating something on the sly. They were being children and we also noticed that the older monks were ignoring most of this, allowing them some mischief. 

One of the older monks came over and handed us a cup each. Twice during the prayers a couple of teenage monks came in to serve butter tea to all the monks. They also offered it to us. All of us took it the first time it was offered. It was quite good actually. One of the outsiders who were attending the prayers sponsored that prayer and it meant that each of the participating monks got 50Rs each. At the end of the prayers, we saw several older monks giving these to the little monks. And then later, we saw these little monks immediately head to the restaurant below the monastery and buy chips, cold drinks, and finishing them there and then. They are children, we reminded ourselves.

One of the older monks came over and handed us a cup each. Twice during the prayers a couple of teenage monks came in to serve butter tea to all the monks. They also offered it to us. All of us took it the first time it was offered. It was quite good actually. One of the outsiders who were attending the prayers sponsored that prayer and it meant that each of the participating monks got 50Rs each. At the end of the prayers, we saw several older monks giving these to the little monks. And then later, we saw these little monks immediately head to the restaurant below the monastery and buy chips, cold drinks, and finishing them there and then. They are children, we reminded ourselves. 

Norbu had chosen to go back to Leh for the night. It did not feel like a good choice to us, but we didn't offer unsolicited advice. Anyhow, he was supposed to meet us at the Monastery parking at 8AM. We met and started the last leg of our journey.

Norbu had chosen to go back to Leh for the night. It did not feel like a good choice to us, but we didn't offer unsolicited advice. Anyhow, he was supposed to meet us at the Monastery parking at 8AM. We met and started the last leg of our journey.

The next stop was the Stakna Monastery. This monastery sits on the top of a hill and makes for a beautiful photography point.

The next stop was the Stakna Monastery. This monastery sits on the top of a hill and makes for a beautiful photography point. 

The monastery is a small one when compared to the monasteries we explored throughout our tour. Only a handful of monks can be seen here and the setup is very much like a home. We could even hear a semi-automatic washing machine running somewhere. The monastery otherwise is very colorful and pretty.

The monastery is a small one when compared to the monasteries we explored throughout our tour. Only a handful of monks can be seen here and the setup is very much like a home. We could even hear a semi-automatic washing machine running somewhere. The monastery otherwise is very colorful and pretty.

The next stop was the Thiksey Monastery. Thiksey town seemed very happening and chill. We also saw evidence of a good sense of humour - "Thik-sey swagat karenge sabka," announced the board outside a cafe. People looked happy overall, and we marked this as another town that we would have wanted to stay at for a night at least.

The next stop was the Thiksey Monastery. Thiksey town seemed very happening and chill. We also saw evidence of a good sense of humour - "Thik-sey swagat karenge sabka," announced the board outside a cafe. People looked happy overall, and we marked this as another town that we would have wanted to stay at for a night at least. 

At the entrance to the monastery, there was a cafe and a souvenir shop. We had our breakfast here and shopped for some incense sticks, fridge magnets, and aroma oils at the souvenir shop. After that we headed to the monastery. We noticed that a film shooting was on-going here. Apparently they were shooting for a music video. We did not recognize the actress, but the actor was Sparsh Shrivastava, the lead actor of Laapata Ladies.

At the entrance to the monastery, there was a cafe and a souvenir shop. We had our breakfast here and shopped for some incense sticks, fridge magnets, and aroma oils at the souvenir shop. After that we headed to the monastery. We noticed that a film shooting was on-going here. Apparently they were shooting for a music video. We did not recognize the actress, but the actor was Sparsh Shrivastava, the lead actor of Laapata Ladies. 

The monastery itself was quite beautiful. It was brightly colored and had an interesting statue of Maitreya Buddha. There is also a Tara temple with interesting forms of Tara. We explored this and then started back down to meet Norbu. It was just 10am and we were done with 2 out of 4 stops we had planned for.

The monastery itself was quite beautiful. It was brightly colored and had an interesting statue of Maitreya Buddha. There is also a Tara temple with interesting forms of Tara. We explored this and then started back down to meet Norbu. It was just 10am and we were done with 2 out of 4 stops we had planned for. 

The next stop was the Rancho school. It was here that the last part of 3 Idiots was shot, not to be confused with the school run by Sonam Wangchuk. The school is apparently quite a good one, but as a tourist point, it was pretty disappointing. And in no time we were done with 3rd out of 4 points.

The next stop was the Rancho school. It was here that the last part of 3 Idiots was shot, not to be confused with the school run by Sonam Wangchuk. The school is apparently quite a good one, but as a tourist point, it was pretty disappointing. And in no time we were done with 3rd out of 4 points. 

The last point was the Shey Palace and Monastery. We had high hopes from this place. However, when we reached the main gate of the tower, we got to know that the palace isn't safe to enter.

The last point was the Shey Palace and Monastery. We had high hopes from this place. However, when we reached the main gate of the tower, we got to know that the palace isn't safe to enter. 

The monastery behind the palace though is open and it features a giant copper with gilded gold statue of Shakyamuni Buddha. The monastery was nice enough, but if you are short on time (which we weren't) and need to choose something to skip, you can skip this (and also Rancho school).

The monastery behind the palace though is open and it features a giant copper with gilded gold statue of Shakyamuni Buddha. The monastery was nice enough, but if you are short on time (which we weren't) and need to choose something to skip, you can skip this (and also Rancho school). 

Just as you climb down from Shey Palace, you come upon a little Tibetan market selling Buddha statues and trinkets. We saw Sparsh Shrivastava again here. He was trying to play a trumpet and failing at it. The old woman who was selling it was trying very hard to teach him.

Just as you climb down from Shey Palace, you come upon a little Tibetan market selling Buddha statues and trinkets. We saw Sparsh Shrivastava again here. He was trying to play a trumpet and failing at it. The old woman who was selling it was trying very hard to teach him.
 
After this, we returned to Leh. It took around 40 minutes. We were to stay at the Lonchay Villa on Sankar Road that night.

After this, we returned to Leh. It took around 40 minutes. We were to stay at the Lonchay Villa on Sankar Road that night. 

....

Lonchay Villa was a beautiful property with a huge garden. And after a very tiring tour, this was a welcome change. We reached quite early and had some time to lie in before venturing out again. 

We freshened up and ordered lunch. After lunch we slept a little, waiting for the sharp sun to recede. We had found out that Sankar Gompa, which was nearby, had its prayers at 6pm. So we decided to attend that and then head to the Central Asian Museum close to the Leh Main Bazaar.

We freshened up and ordered lunch. After lunch we slept a little, waiting for the sharp sun to recede. We had found out that Sankar Gompa, which was nearby, had its prayers at 6pm. So we decided to attend that and then head to the Central Asian Museum close to the Leh Main Bazaar. 

....

The prayer at Shankar Gompa was special because it was a single monk chanting and playing the cymbals and the wooden gong. The prayer lasted for nearly an hour and we loved it. After that, we took the shortcut to the main market that Mr Lonchay, the owner of the Lonchay Villa, had told us about. In around 10 minutes, we were at the entrance of the Central Asian Museum, but it was closed. The caretaker asked us to come back early next morning and he would be glad to open it earlier than usual for us then. 

So we walked around the Leh Main Bazaar, soaking in the diverse population roaming around this cosmopolitan area. We had a light dinner at the Himalayan Cafe and then headed to the Lonchay Villa for rest. The walk back to the Villa was all uphill and by the time we reached our room, we were ready to crash. But we planned a little for the next day and then went to sleep.


So we walked around the Leh Main Bazaar, soaking in the diverse population roaming around this cosmopolitan area. We had a light dinner at the Himalayan Cafe and then headed to the Lonchay Villa for rest. The walk back to the Villa was all uphill and by the time we reached our room, we were ready to crash. But we planned a little for the next day and then went to sleep. 

Day 9: Heritage Walk in Leh, Concluding the Trip with Traditional Ladakhi Food

Our plan for the day was that we would wake up early, go for bird watching, come back, have breakfast, and then shift to our hotel for the night, The Snow Lion, and then head out for sight seeing. As expected, the day did not start as per the plan. The exhaustion of the past 8 days caught up with us and instead of waking up early, we slept in. We woke up at 8:30am, so there was no question of going out for bird watching. We took bath and ordered some breakfast in the beautiful garden.

Mr Lonchay's mom was working in the garden, harvesting spinach, so we talked to her for some time. She informed us that some of the vegetables grown in the garden went to the local public school. She was very warm and hospitable. And the breakfast was nice too. After that, we checked out and walked about a 100m to our new hotel.

Mr Lonchay's mom was working in the garden, harvesting spinach, so we talked to her for some time. She informed us that some of the vegetables grown in the garden went to the local public school. She was very warm and hospitable. And the breakfast was nice too. After that, we checked out and walked about a 100m to our new hotel. 

The Snow Lion was another beautiful property, run by a Bengali gentleman who has now moved to ladakh. He has leased the property. The person attending to the guests was Anu, who is a vivacious and enthusiastic lady from Thiksey. She told us about another nice short cut to the Leh Bazaar and also some nice places to eat in the city. We decided to try to weave her suggestions into our plan for the day wherever possible.

The Snow Lion was another beautiful property, run by a Bengali gentleman who has now moved to ladakh. He has leased the property. The person attending to the guests was Anu, who is a vivacious and enthusiastic lady from Thiksey. She told us about another nice short cut to the Leh Bazaar and also some nice places to eat in the city. We decided to try to weave her suggestions into our plan for the day wherever possible. 

Our plan was to visit the Central Asian Museum first, and then try to trace the places that are talked about during the Old Town Heritage Walk using the map provided on their website.

Our plan was to visit the Central Asian Museum first, and then try to trace the places that are talked about during the Old Town Heritage Walk using the map provided on their website.
 
The Central Asian Museum is an beautifully designed 3-story museum that has a rich collection of photographs related to the porters and traders who used to ply the silk route, scaling passes on foot and on horses. It showcased equipment and attire they used. It also had some beautiful late 19th century black and white photographs of the Leh Main Bazaar.

The Central Asian Museum is an beautifully designed 3-story museum that has a rich collection of photographs related to the porters and traders who used to ply the silk route, scaling passes on foot and on horses. It showcased equipment and attire they used. It also had some beautiful late 19th century black and white photographs of the Leh Main Bazaar.
 
The second activity - tracing the landmarks covered in the Old Town Heritage Walk, was like an Enid Blyton adventure, looking for clues, finding treasure. Essentially, this walk covers old houses that have been restored by the Tibetan Heritage Fund (THF) and Leh Old Town Initiative (LOTI), old stupa gates, a couple of Gompas, and a street called Chutarang that has bakeries that follow old Baltistani techniques of baking crisp breads. If you have a few hours to spare in Leh, this treasure hunt is highly recommended.


The second activity - tracing the landmarks covered in the Old Town Heritage Walk, was like an Enid Blyton adventure, looking for clues, finding treasure. Essentially, this walk covers old houses that have been restored by the Tibetan Heritage Fund (THF) and Leh Old Town Initiative (LOTI), old stupa gates, a couple of Gompas, and a street called Chutarang that has bakeries that follow old Baltistani techniques of baking crisp breads. If you have a few hours to spare in Leh, this treasure hunt is highly recommended. 

By the time we finished exploring the old town, we were very thirsty. We then remembered the Dzomsa Shop that Anu had mentioned. It was about 500meters from where we were standing then. This is a unique shop where you can fill your water bottles for 7Rs/ltr. And it also served sweetened and unsweetened seabuck berry and apricot juices for Rs. 40 per glass. You could first taste the juices before deciding which one to buy. We tasted the unsweetened seabuck berry juice. It was too sour. So we bought a glass of unsweetened apricot juice to quench our thirst. It was nice and refreshing.

By the time we finished exploring the old town, we were very thirsty. We then remembered the Dzomsa Shop that Anu had mentioned. It was about 500meters from where we were standing then. This is a unique shop where you can fill your water bottles for 7Rs/ltr. And it also served sweetened and unsweetened seabuck berry and apricot juices for Rs. 40 per glass. You could first taste the juices before deciding which one to buy. We tasted the unsweetened seabuck berry juice. It was too sour. So we bought a glass of unsweetened apricot juice to quench our thirst. It was nice and refreshing. 

After that we visited Schoko Monk Chocolates, a gourmet chocolate shop run by a lady from Bangalore who has shifted to Leh. This shop too was recommended by Anu. This was a cute shop with some really delicious looking chocolates. The good thing is that she tries to use as many local ingredients as possible in her chocolates. The next shop we visited Sugar House, a wonderful bakery that transports you to the 7th heaven as soon as decend the stairs. Its display cabinets has some of the most beautiful cakes ever. The best thing about this place was that it served some irresistible hot chocolate. Yumm.

After that we visited Schoko Monk Chocolates, a gourmet chocolate shop run by a lady from Bangalore who has shifted to Leh. This shop too was recommended by Anu. This was a cute shop with some really delicious looking chocolates. The good thing is that she tries to use as many local ingredients as possible in her chocolates. The next shop we visited Sugar House, a wonderful bakery that transports you to the 7th heaven as soon as decend the stairs. Its display cabinets has some of the most beautiful cakes ever. The best thing about this place was that it served some irresistible hot chocolate. Yumm.   

Then we went in search of Bon Appetit, another restaurant suggested by Anu. It was a little far from the Leh Main Bazaar. We just wanted to check it out because we wanted to decide whether or not we should come here for dinner. We weren't hungry just yet. The restaurant was as beautiful as Anu had promised and the menu looked good. We made up our minds to stop here at our way back to the hotel and resumed our exploration of Leh.

Then we went in search of Bon Appetit, another restaurant suggested by Anu. It was a little far from the Leh Main Bazaar. We just wanted to check it out because we wanted to decide whether or not we should come here for dinner. We weren't hungry just yet. The restaurant was as beautiful as Anu had promised and the menu looked good. We made up our minds to stop here at our way back to the hotel and resumed our exploration of Leh.
 
We walked up and down the streets, exploring markets and streets. And then when we got tired, we went back to the Main Bazaar and sat down on one of the benches watching the crowd, feeling sad about the fact that this was going to be our last evening in Leh.

We walked up and down the streets, exploring markets and streets. And then when we got tired, we went back to the Main Bazaar and sat down on one of the benches watching the crowd, feeling sad about the fact that this was going to be our last evening in Leh.

By 7:30, we were properly hungry. Though we had decided to stop at Bon Appetit, at the last minute we decided to also check out The Chimath Tibetan Kitchen at the Main Bazaar. This restaurant too was recommended to Anu. The menu looked good, so we decided to have Chicken Chutagi here and then have another dish at the Bon Appetit. However, the Chutagi was too filling. So after that we headed straight back to the hotel to catch some sleep.

By 7:30, we were properly hungry. Though we had decided to stop at Bon Appetit, at the last minute we decided to also check out The Chimath Tibetan Kitchen at the Main Bazaar. This restaurant too was recommended to Anu. The menu looked good, so we decided to have Chicken Chutagi here and then have another dish at the Bon Appetit. However, the Chutagi was too filling. So after that we headed straight back to the hotel to catch some sleep. 
   
Day 10: Back to Delhi


The last night in Leh, we couldn't sleep well even though the room was very comfortable. Checkout time at most of the hotels in Leh is 8AM and our flight was at 12PM. The airport was just 15 minutes drive from the hotel. We checked out at around 8:45am. We had called for a taxi to drop us at the airport for Rs. 500. By 9:15 we were at the airport.

The last night in Leh, we couldn't sleep well even though the room was very comfortable. Checkout time at most of the hotels in Leh is 8AM and our flight was at 12PM. The airport was just 15 minutes drive from the hotel. We checked out at around 8:45am. We had called for a taxi to drop us at the airport for Rs. 500. By 9:15 we were at the airport. 

Leh Airport is really small and there isn't much to do here while waiting for the flight. You can as easily check out, have a nice breakfast at one of the cafes and then head to the airport for a 12pm flight. We had tea at the airport and munched on some crispy, savoury bread we had bought from the Chutarang street. It was a good combination.

Leh Airport is really small and there isn't much to do here while waiting for the flight. You can as easily check out, have a nice breakfast at one of the cafes and then head to the airport for a 12pm flight. We had tea at the airport and munched on some crispy, savoury bread we had bought from the Chutarang street. It was a good combination.

At around 11, we boarded the flight. We had chosen seats on the right side of the plane because that would overlook the Karakoram range. And indeed the view was beautiful. A perfect culmination to our memorable travels in Leh.

At around 11, we boarded the flight. We had chosen seats on the right side of the plane because that would overlook the Karakoram range. And indeed the view was beautiful. A perfect culmination to our memorable travels in Leh. 

I am sure we will go there again. This time may be we will drive down and brave the terrain on our own. And hopefully it would be soon.

I am sure we will go there again. This time may be we will drive down and brave the terrain on our own. And hopefully it would be soon.  

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