Pedaling Through Time: A Photographer’s Love Affair with Sicily

“The climate’s delicate; the air most sweet.

Fertile the isle, the temple much surpassing

The common praise it bears.”

- Shakespeare, Winter’s Tale Act III, Scene 1_

I am not fully sure when I personally fell in love with Sicily, but I am most certain I wasn't the first person to do so. I partially blame Luchino Visconti, whose 1963 [adaptation of "The Leopard" by Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa) made a profound impression on me. The romantic story and amazing landscapes imprinted the urge to witness the island with my own eyes.

It took me several years before I was able to do so. I made several more visits since then, though always during the winter. It allowed me to escape the gloomy Central European weather and enjoy the mild Mediterranean sun without experiencing the merciless heat of summer.

All my previous trips were family trips. I must say Sicily is a great choice when going on a trip with kids. As an avid cyclist, I always thought it would be great to ride a bicycle on the windy and steep roads of the island—something that is incompatible with having quality family time.

A window of opportunity opened up this year. I had a few weeks off before starting the next project and decided it was the right time to fulfill my dreams of having a cycling and photography-focused trip to Sicily. With the blessing of my family, I went there for just over a week—enough time to see some of the iconic places and seek landscape views from the saddle of a bike. The weather was only mildly cooperative, but having the freedom to choose the time and place allowed me to take some pictures I could not achieve before.

I must have been one unusual kind of cyclist, loaded with a heavy backpack carrying a medium-format camera and a drone. One thing I was not prepared for was the number of stray dogs. Only later did I become aware that it's estimated there are around 700,000 homeless dogs there, which is actually a huge problem. Most of the dogs were alone and seemed to be terrified rather than aggressive, though I was chased by a pack on one occasion, which was a somewhat terrifying experience. Fortunately, the island is rabies-free.

Sicilians build things like they will live forever and eat like they will die tomorrow.

_Plato_

Few places on Earth can be described in such a large multitude of ways as Sicily. For some, it is deeply associated with Mediterranean culture rich in ancient history. There are several magnificent archaeological sites open for tourists. Perhaps Valley of the Temples is the most famous, though Segesta, Selinunte, Taormina, and the mosaics in Villa Romana del Casale are incredibly impressive as well. There are also many smaller sites such as Cave di Cusa. Discovering them is another treat that the island offers. Visiting requires some planning, as the attractions are spread within a few hours' driving distance.

The long and complex history of Sicily brought many styles to its settlements. This can be observed in many places. Ragusa and other nearby towns are known for their Late Baroque style. Cefalù is famous for its Norman-style cathedral and picturesque port also, some scenes for the famous Cinema Paradiso were shot there. Syracuse—the birthplace of Archimedes—boasts archaeological sites and buildings spanning multiple periods of history. Not to mention Catania and Palermo, with their vibrant city centers.

“All that nature has of great, all it has of pleasant, all it has of terrible can be compared to Etna; and Etna cannot be compared to anything.” - Dominique Vivant Denon

It's hard to miss Etna while visiting Eastern or Central Sicily. The volcano dominates the landscape, and it's not infrequent to witness its activity. A formidable cloud of smoke coming from it reminds us of the dangers it can bring; however, it's also responsible for making the island's soil exceptionally fertile. In some ways, this dualism describes the island well.

On one hand, it might be considered a relatively poor region impacted by the Mafia, bloody WWII campaigns, or earthquakes (including the significant 1980 earthquake and many smaller ones). One original way to honor the victims of the 1968 earthquake—which destroyed the towns of Gibelina and Poggioreale—is Creto di Burri—a massive concrete art installation symbolizing resilience and remembrance.

On the other hand, its agriculture thrives, and its inhabitants are exceptionally friendly and helpful. A big warm smile welcomes you almost everywhere. Excellent food and company make one truly enjoy life while spending time there.

“I don’t have words to express how she has welcomed us: with fresh green mulberry trees, evergreen oleanders, lemon hedgerows etc. In a public garden there are broad beds of buttercups and anemones. The air is mild, warm and aromatic; the wind balmy.” _Goethe_

The number one association I have with Sicily is a sense of almost unlimited space. I think it has to do with the rolling hills that seem to wave well beyond the horizon. Eons of farming have softened the landscape considerably. Perhaps it's an atavism—I find that cultivated fields give a sense of familiarity and safety. I could stare all day into the soft shadows forming different shapes as the sun slowly moves toward the horizon.

There are several places where this sense is amplified. This can be seen in towns within Parco della Madonie, such as Petralia Soprana, laid out against mountains in the background. There's Enna with its majestic sweeping views from Rocca di Enna or Erice, where one can overlook the landscape of the western coast from 750m above sea level.

The mix of amazing landscapes, archaeological sites, history, and culture makes Sicily an exceptional place to visit.

About Przemysław Maciołek :

Przemysław Maciołek is an amateur photographer based in Kraków, Poland. He specializes in landscapes, street photography, and portraits. His work often captures moments of tranquility and beauty, reflecting his deep connection to nature and surroundings.

Beyond his photographic pursuits, Przemysław Maciołek is also a software engineer, a father, and an avid cyclist, balancing his artistic passions with his professional and family life.